‘It’s a cure-all’: the simple, soothing power of congee – and chefs’ tips on how to serve it

‘It’s a rousing start to a brisk winter day – or a cosy homecoming after a long, noisy night out’: Jinghua Qian’s pàofàn topped with pork floss and a side dish of fǔrǔ (fermented bean curd) and Tianjin pickles. Photograph: Jinghua Qian

You wouldn’t know it now, but as a child I was a very picky eater. So one of my favourite foods – and the first meal I ever learned to make – was a Chinese pour-over rice porridge.

Pàofàn, or por-veh as we call it in Shanghainese, is frightfully simple. Put the kettle on and take your leftover rice from the fridge. Pour the boiling water over the rice so it comes up about halfway. Press the hardened clumps of cold rice into the hot water with the back of a spoon, breaking them up into grains. Then eat it with all your favourite toppings and condiments, cradling the warm bowl in your palm.