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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Emma Graham-Harrison and Artem Mazhulin in Odesa

‘It brings back a sense of belonging’: Bakhmut was destroyed by Russia – but the town lives on through its newspaper

Svitlana Ovcharenko, in a puffy jacket with high hood, holds a newspaper as she stands in front of a building with columns
Svitlana Ovcharenko, editor of the Vpered newspaper, photographed in Odesa, Ukraine, on 7 November 2024. Photograph: Viktors Sajenko/the Observer

Before Bakhmut became famous internationally as a battleground, it was known inside Ukraine for salt, sparkling wine fermented in an old alabaster mine and roses that lined its streets. That physical town is gone now, its buildings in ruins, its streets a no man’s land of makeshift cemeteries laced with mines. Russian troops destroyed it as they claimed it, inch by inch, in a slow campaign between the summers of 2022 and 2023.

Ukrainian resistance turned this Donbas town into a byword for courage. The last few bottles rescued from the winery sell online for more than French vintages, their prices charged by nostalgia and patriotism.

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