A gel manicure in a gorgeous summer nail polish color or summer nail trend might last for weeks and look extra shiny, but is it worth it? Gel manicures have acquired a bit of a bad reputation. Some claim that gel manicures are responsible for their flaky nail beds, yellow nails, weakened nails, and skin damage. So, the time has come to ask (and answer!) the big question: Is gel nail polish actually bad for your nails?
"My personal opinion, and what I have observed in my practice, is that most of the damage from gel manicures is from the removal process, especially if manufacturer's instructions are not followed, or two different brands are mixed and used," explains Dana Stern, M.D., a dermatologist and nail specialist in New York City.
To determine what is hearsay and what is the truth, we spoke to Dr. Stern and nail artists Michelle Nguyen and Juanita Huber-Millet. Here, they're explaining the healthiest way to get your nails done, the best type of polish, and how to have a safe gel nail polish removal.
Will Gel Manicures Ruin My Nails?
Gel polish isn't necessarily going to ruin your nails, but it can weaken them if you don't follow proper aftercare instructions. "While gel polish offers a longer-lasting and chip-resistant finish, improper removal can potentially weaken or damage your nails. I always advise visiting a professional to ensure proper care and maintenance regardless of the type of polish you choose," says Stern. (If you have acrylics, read our guide on how to safely remove acrylics at home.)
Nguyen, CEO and founder of PLA, adds that gel polish itself is unlikely to affect natural nails. In fact, it can make them even stronger by protecting them from the environment.
Are Soft Gels or Hard Gels Better?
There are two different types of gel that you can get in salons: Soft gels and hard gels (like a BIAB manicure). “Hard gels are the traditional gels of the '80s that are impermeable to acetone and need to be filed off, while soft gels are the newer ‘soak-off’ gels that can be removed without aggressive scraping,” says Dr. Stern. Unsurprisingly, hard gels are way more damaging than soft gels.
"When selecting a gel polish, I recommend researching the brand to ensure you're choosing a product that aligns with your nail health goals," says Huber-Millet. "Additionally, seeking out reputable salons that prioritize using high-quality, tested products can further ensure a healthier nail experience. Ultimately, it's about making informed choices that prioritize the health and well-being of your nails."
Does UV Curing Cause Skin Damage?
Gel manis require exposure to UV light (regardless of whether it’s a UVA lamp or an LED lamp), which can contribute to skin damage. Unfortunately, there isn't much research yet on UV rays as related to gel manicures—and what is out there reveals mixed findings.
A 2020 study in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology found that there have been no cases reported of patients under 40 years old with a history of chronic gel manicures diagnosed with non-melanoma skin cancer or melanoma on the hands or nails. Meanwhile, there was little to no change in the incidence of melanoma among patients under 65.
More recently, a 2023 study in Nature Communications found that chronic use of dryers can damage your DNA and cause human cell mutations that could increase the risk of skin cancer. Even so, researchers agree that more data is needed to make any conclusions.
“Dermatologists tend to be cautiously optimistic people, but I still advise protecting your hands or feet with either a broad-spectrum sunscreen applied 15 minutes before exposure, or using either fingertip-less gloves or pedicure socks in order to protect the skin on the hands and feet from the aging effects of UV light,” Dr. Stern says.
Is Gel Polish Worse for Thin Nails Than Regular Polish?
If your nails are already thin or brittle, you might want to opt for regular polish instead of gel. “A study out of Miami School of Medicine used ultrasound to demonstrate that gel manicures do cause nail thinning,” says Dr. Stern, noting that the exact reason for the thinning was unclear to the authors.
Can I Strengthen My Nails With a Gel Manicure?
If you're trying to ensure optimal nail health, your best option is seeing a professional for both application and removal. "To achieve stronger nails, maintain constant hydration by moisturizing regularly with cuticle oil and hand cream throughout the day," says Huber-Millet. "These practices have been game-changers for me in achieving healthier and stronger nails."
How Long Is It Safe to Wear Gel Polish?
We're not saying you have to swear off gels for the rest of your life, but if you are worried about possible nail damage, you can try a few things to mitigate the effects. Remove your gels on time (two weeks is a good timeline) and take breaks between manicures to let your nails return to normalcy.
“Before the manicure, ask how the product will be removed and make sure that they won’t be using a gritty file, sander, or other tool to scrape the product off vigorously,” says Dr. Stern. “Gel polish should come off easily after soaking in acetone, and these other methods can cause tremendous, and sometimes irreversible, damage to the nail and cuticles.”
You need to be your own advocate in the salon, because nobody else cares as much about your nails as you do. “If something is wrong," says Stern, "you should speak up.”
