When heading on holiday, magic is always what I hope for but rarely get. To “escape from it all” has always been just a nice idea - for even when the hotel or destination has been picture perfect, I simply never manage to truly “switch off”.
But then there was Carton House. A retreat where Grace Kelly flashes her famous smile as she strolls by, Mick Jagger invites you to join him for a dance while Lana Del Rey looks on as she strums her guitar.
Well, obviously, not exactly, but this dreamy place, where these iconic figures frequented and found peace still quite vividly houses their spirits. And it was here that I finally “escaped”..
Speaking of escaping reality, I was in royally good company. The estate's most notable guest, Queen Victoria, apparently dreamt that she was on a boat on a lake there. No such lake existed on the property, so the owners simply created one for her.
But Carton House is a place built on dreams, and you too will have your own trippy thoughts as you get lost traipsing down its maze of hallowed hallways in the footsteps of its legendary guests as you discover hidden doors, leading to hidden rooms framed by whimsical art pieces peperring the walls.
It’s also nice that despite being recently renovated and modernised, and even boasting an entire new section of rooms known as The Garden Wing, Carton House has managed to stick to its roots and proudly maintain its 18th century aesthetic.
So, you'll be chilling in your centuries-old hotel room with all its original features watching Netflix on a wall-mounted, flat-screen TV just a few doors down the corridor from Queen Victoria's “untouched” bedroom.
History
To put this all into context, this sprawling 18th century, 1,100-acre estate in the heart of County Kildare, Ireland, was once home to the aristocratic FitzGerald family, James, the Duke of Leinster and Emily, Duchess of Leinster (from 1731-1814).
The property came to prominence after Queen Victoria visited in 1849 during the Great Famine. The monarch visited Ireland two more times: in 1853, when she attended the Exhibition of Art and Art Industry at Leinster Lawn, Dublin, and in 1861 when the royal family stayed at Killarney.
Not only did she get an actual lake at Carton House, which is still flowing beautifully today, by the way, but her room was custom designed by Duchess Emily at great expense in an Oriental theme, an aesthetic the queen had an obsession with at the time.
Now called The Chinese Room, it remains in its original state with the same chairs, with only the four poster bed on which the Queen slept gone.
Lady Emily specially commissioned gilt-wood and hand-drawn papyrus wallpaper from China for the walls, which have been delicately restored by historians.
The room, which is extremely sensitive to light and kept at a different temperature and light-setting to the rest of the house, gives you the chills - in a good way.
The A-Listers
Vic aside, this property has hosted so many royals, rock legends, and Hollywood A Listers that it would be rude not to name drop.
Gracing its long list of famous guests, King George V and Queen Mary in 1899, the aforementioned Princess Grace of Monaco who so adored the place that she and husband Prince Rainier and their children would become a regular fixture there beloved by staff.
Sir Mick Jagger also escaped there for months in his heyday and had his fair share of hedonistic nights living it up with Marianne Faithfull.
Then there was Julie Andrews. She made the propery’s rolling hills come alive as she over the summer and autumn of 1969 while filming the movie Darling Lili, while singer/songwriter Lana Del Rey is known to frequent this magical estate to rest and find inspirations for her music.
She’s said to be a keen explorer of the lush surroundings, including the estate’s stunning gardens and woodland trails. Just before my arrival, I heard Scottish crooner Lewis Capaldi had also been making sweet music there as he took a break from touring.
But while Carton House has attracted some of the world's biggest names, it's a sanctuary for everyone that steps foot in it.
Wellness
There's also been a focus on wellness in recent years and I witnessed how succesful that has been. Despite being a card-carrying Yoga cynic, I literally shed tears of relief after checking out one of its classes.
The combination of emotional therapy and the teacher’s magical ability to turn downward dog into a relaxing exercise, meant this wasn’t your average class.
The hotel also has a renowned spa with top notch treatments, many of which focus on mindfulness.
Where
Just a 20-minute drive from Dublin, Carton House: A Faitmonth Managed Hotel may have a star-studded past but it has somehow remained a well-kept secret. How it’s managed to do that is a mind-boggling mystery.
After coursing through the pretty, and quaint tree-lined streets, you suddenly pull up to the almost out of place stately entrance and are struck by the sheer grandeur of it all.
Tall columns, immaculate lawns, and an architectural design that’s as timeless as the stories it holds. The property, which is home to two championship golf courses where even a novice like me can get lessons from a pro, is also surrounded by breath-taking, rolling parkland.
Food glorious food
You'll also experienced some of the best dining from its top chefs and start your day in an actual gold room - known as The Gold Salon - once reserved for the aristocracy.
Classical music sets the tone as you tuck into a incredible breakfast from a vast menu, which includes buttermilk pancakes, Irish smoked salmon, and even striploin steak and eggs you look out at acres of manicured lawns from towering French windows.
Let's not even mention their high tea, or shall we?
A story-telling tea with the option of a history tour of the resort before or afterwards, the Iconic Afternoon Tea is a take on the traditional Afternoon Tea experience, and pays tribute to a selection of its famous guests.
A highlight will be tucking into the handbag shaped chocolate mousse, which is a tribute to Grace Kelly.
The Kelly bag was created in the 1930s but was renamed in the '50s when Grace Kelly was snapped trying to hide her pregnancy with it.
Then there's the tucking into a wildly creative tasting menu for dinner at Kathleen's Kitchen and washing it all down in their cosy book-lined Whiskey Library with a world-class selection of the world’s finest whiskeys.
I even had a private whiskey tutorial from the hotel’s very charming expert Richard Hurley, “no relation to Liz (Hurley), sadly,” is his opening gambit.
He took me through the history of the famous beverage in their stunning Whiskey Library, which was the house’s original library. I was able to sip on various bottles of the distilled spirit, some aged for decades and other with eye-watering price tags.
After this necessary research, I floated to my epic suite, which despite its large size was super-cosy with a cloud for a bed,
Then it was lights out for me, but not before tucking into the special sweet Irish bread and the scruptious treats that greeted me when I first checked into in my room.
This was was no ordinary bedtime. Whiskey nighcaps, and a sleepover with royalty as Jagger and Marianne belt out a cheeky lullaby down the halls.
A sweet dream, indeed.
Book: Double occupancy of the Garden Wing £289. Manor House £458. The Iconic Afternoon Tea is £54 per person, while a yoga session is £33 at Carton House: A Fairmont Managed Hotel
