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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Phoebe Taplin

In the footsteps of Virginia Woolf: walking the west Cornwall coast to the Badger pub

St Ives harbour at dawn.
St Ives harbour at dawn. Photograph: Mick Blakey/Alamy

From St Ives station, there’s a view of sand, palms and, across misty blue water, a lighthouse on a rocky island. Virginia Woolf and her sister, artist Vanessa Bell, saw this view as children from the house their father rented. It later featured in Woolf’s novel To the Lighthouse, set in the Hebrides but clearly inspired by St Ives. She describes “the great plateful of blue water” and “hoary Lighthouse, distant, austere in the midst”. Images have lingered ever since I read it years ago at college, and my pub walk is something of a literary pilgrimage.

Travel map, St Ives-Lelant
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