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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Mike Unwin

In the company of wolves … and Romans: hiking Portugal’s only national park

The Roman road to the monastery of Santa Maria in Peneda-Gerês.
The Roman road to the monastery of Santa Maria in Peneda-Gerês Photograph: PR

‘Fabulous views in wonderful scenery,” say today’s walking notes. I don’t doubt it. But now, with the wind getting up and a mist creeping over the ridge, there’s little to see other than the ground at our feet. Which is why my attention is drawn to, shall we say, a canine deposit.

But there are no dogs up here. It’s been two hours and just over four miles since that yappy little mongrel in the last village. And there are certainly no dog walkers; not one hint of another human in this wild terrain. No, the size, shape and furriness of this trailside offering reveal its author was the ancestor of all dogs: a wolf.

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