The Snowy Mountains, or “the Snowies”, are on the traditional lands of the Ngarigo. On the Monaro highway, it’s about six hours’ drive from Sydney and three from Canberra.
I live in the main town of Jindabyne, which everyone calls “Jindy”. I moved all over Australia and settled here 10 years ago because I think it’s the most beautiful place in the country with its mountains, lakes, rivers and alpine vegetation.
Mount Kosciuszko (most easily accessed after taking the Kosciuszko Express chairlift from Thredbo) is Australia’s highest point. Perisher and Thredbo are the two main ski resorts; both are around half an hour’s drive from Jindabyne.
Most people still think of the Snowies as a winter destination, but in summer it transforms into an adventure playground with world-class mountain biking, horse riding, hiking, lake sports and whitewater rafting. The weather is perfect, there are fewer tourists and it has a family-friendly country-town feel.
Food
Scenic picnics with excellent provisions are my favourite eating style. In Berridale (about 25 minutes from Jindabyne), The Little Grocer at Shut the Gate wines stocks excellent regional produce. I fill my basket with wine, cheese, cured meat and bread. You can picnic on the winery grounds, too, and it does live music at the cellar door on the first Friday of every month.
There’s currently a wood-fired pizza war happening. Out of Bounds operates from a van on a property in Berridale and has been the local favourite for years. When the excellent Stacks Pizza opened in Jindy recently, it caused ripples in the community. The pepperoni topping is my go-to.
We have a big Japanese influence as many seasonal ski workers travel from Japan for the Australian winter. The izakaya-style Takayama Restaurant Bar has the best food in Jindabyne. It’s a fun group night out, but also great if you’re solo and starving and just want a ramen topped with a juicy slice of pork. Book in advance.
About 20 minutes from Jindabyne, Perrotta’s Italian restaurant opened at Lake Crackenback Resort & Spa in 2024. The pasta is delicious; my go-to is the rigatoni with vodka sauce. They often get seafood from the far south coast of New South Wales, which in my opinion has Australia’s best oysters. It’s an intimate-sized restaurant that’s great for a date as they do wine pairings and it’s a scenic area with alpine vegetation.
The community meets at ESS Board Store, which serves Allpress coffee. Head to Birchwood Jindabyne for specialty coffees and an all-day menu with Indian and Japanese-influenced lunches. Tea drinkers should head to The Market Jindabyne to create their own tea blend. It’s an excellent spot for working in a private nook, and the deli sells great picnic supplies.
Nature
My number one thing to do – that most people miss – is canoeing 10 minutes across Lake Jindabyne to Lion Island nature reserve. It’s a secluded beach with a mountain view and the snow-melt water is crisp on a blazing hot day. You can hire canoes from Sacred Ride and, unless it’s windy, the lake is calm.
Mountain biking is the biggest sport here in summer. The Thredbo Valley track in Kosciuszko national park is a bonanza for bikers. It has experienced, intermediate and beginner sections and bikes can be hired from Harro’s.
Floating a lilo down Thredbo River is a must-do. Start your float at Gaden trout hatchery and pop out at Thredbo River picnic area. There’s big oak trees by the river and it’s especially lush in springtime with the fresh snowmelt. There’s an easy hike from the hatchery to the picnic area too.
Head to Bullocks track in the national park for your best chance to see a platypus in the pools around the Thredbo River. Towards summer they exit their burrows in the late afternoon and frolic in the water. But be quiet – they’re shy!
The Main Range walk in Kosciusko national park takes you to five lakes including my favourite, Lake Albina. The Blue Lake is Australia’s largest glacial lake and a beautiful sight. It’s got that Scottish highlands feeling and many hikes branch off from there.
Jindabyne nightlife
The young and hip go to Holly’s for the great atmosphere and dancing vibes. DJs play regular sets in the beer garden and there’s a food truck. For a more intimate feel Bar Lula serves European-style small plates and has acoustic live music. First dates often happen at Bar Lula.
The lakeside Banjo Paterson Inn (known as “the Banj”) has every demographic covered. There’s accommodation upstairs and a brewery downstairs where cyclists and hikers come by for a beer after their outdoor activities. The restaurant serves good family meals such as burgers, pizza and ice-cream. It’s also the late-night kick-on spot.
Inspiration
The Snowies become the Queenstown of Australia in summer. Our culture here is being outdoors and we have some fantastic tour providers to get you among it.
Cochran Horse Treks run for three to seven days and are customised to suit guests’ horseback abilities. Peter Cochran is a fifth-generation mountain horseman with deep knowledge of the area. Treks feature packhorses, billy tea, campfires and camp oven-cooked dinners.
Whitewater rafting on the lower Snowy River is sensational. You might see wild brumbies running through the landscape. The company I guide for, Venture Outdoors Co, does excellent guided trips.
Thredbo Resort runs new moon stargazing hikes. You start the walk at dusk, go past rocky granite outcrops, running rivers and the scenic Lake Cootapatamba. Guides set up a hot chocolate experience at Mount Kosciuszko and point out the constellations and current astronomical events.
Snowy Mountains accommodation
The dog-friendly Big Yard Farm (25 minutes’ drive from Jindabyne; from $750 a night) sleeps up to six people. It has private access to trout fishing along the Mowamba River, which is also home to wombats, kangaroos and platypus. There are open fireplaces and a well-equipped kitchen for home cooks.
Elsewhere, I suggest getting off the beaten path of the ski resorts and opting for a private cabin in the bush. Big Yard Escapes (from $179 a night) are tiny houses close to Thredbo and Perisher with big windows framing the alpine outlook. Crafters cabins (from $490 per night) are in the bushland beneath Crackenback Peak. They’re fully off-grid with rainwater, solar power and heat from thermal mass walls. Close to Jindabyne, the design-led Common Kosci (from $300 a night) is a contemporary update on the Aussie bush shack with hammocks, comfy sofas, floor to ceiling windows, outdoor hot tubs and underfloor heating.
For car campers, Thredbo Diggings in Kosciuszko national park is great. For hikers, Wilkinson’s Creek is a beautiful place to camp. Read the camping restrictions in advance, and always tell someone where you’re going and when you’ll return.
• Josh Shukor is a tour operator and guide for Venture Outdoors Co.
