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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
World
Jon Gambrell

In brief glimpses of Tehran, an AP journalist sees a changing and challenged Iran

Iran Changing Tehran - (Copyright 2025 The Associated Press. All rights reserved)

As you enter Iran’s capital, it starts with only occasional glimpses — a passenger in a car speeding by or a pedestrian trying to leapfrog through Tehran’s notorious traffic. But as you reach the cooler heights of Tehran’s northern neighborhoods along the city’s sycamore-lined Vali-e Asr Street, they are almost everywhere, women with their brown, black, blonde and gray locks.

More and more, Iranian women choose to forgo the country’s mandatory headscarf, or hijab.

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