In 1921, Coco Chanel transformed the perfume world forever with the launch of Chanel No. 5. Created in partnership with perfumer Ernest Beaux, it was the first perfume to use lab-made ingredients rather than natural flower oils. The result? A complex fragrance that smelled like a real woman, rather than a rose, violet, or lily-of-the-valley.
A blueprint for the future, Coco was also the first to put her own name on a perfume bottle. Louis Vuitton hueres d’Absence, Miss Dior, and Gucci No. 1 soon followed – but the history of the fashion house fragrances began with Chanel.
The latest in the iconic Coco Mademoiselle line, Crush Absolu is the first new scent in six years. Launching on 19 August, the fragrance is crafted in-house with perfumer Olivier Polge. With an amber intensity balanced by vibrant grapefruit and lychee, anticipation for the scent evokes Chanel’s enduring appeal.
Best Chanel perfumes at a glance
Best classic perfume – Chanel no.5: £82, Sephora.co.uk
Best modern icon – Chanel Coco Mademoiselle: £235, Sephora.co.uk
Best fresh fragrance – Chanel chance: £82, Sephora.co.uk
Best masculine scent – Chanel bleu de parfum: £92, Sephora.co.uk
The campaign is fronted by Grammy-nominated artist Gracie Abrams – a decidedly cool choice. The Coco Mademoiselle line was launched in 2001 by the house’s legendary perfumer Jacques Polge (yes, Olivier’s father), reflecting the youthful, free spirit of a younger Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.
I’ve been wearing the new Crush Absolu parfum every day for two weeks ahead of its global launch. While Chanel No. 5 might be synonymous with your glamorous grandma, Crush Absolu is about to be on every Gen Z’s Christmas wishlist – here’s why.
How I tested
Considering everything from the bottle – does it feel suitably luxurious? – to the fragrance notes, staying power and value for money, I’ve been spritzing the Chanel Crush Absolu daily for the past fortnight. I assessed whether it felt unique or blended in with a sea of other scents. A covetable fragrance should earn you compliments, of course – so I noted whether it got any love from family and friends.
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Chanel Coco Mademoiselle crush absolu
★★★★★
What we love: Year-round appeal; it isn’t overly sweet despite top notes of grapefruit and lychee, great staying power, and perfect for gifting
Take note: Though crowd-pleasing, it’s not an utterly unique scent
There is something instantly glamorous about Chanel’s new Coco Mademoiselle Crush Absolu. But it feels like a fresh take on the iconic Chanel aesthetic, right down to the pretty pink-toned bottle.
Coco Mademoiselle has long been a favourite in the world of luxury fragrance, but Crush Absolu seems designed to introduce that appeal to a younger generation. A gateway into the world of Chanel fragrance, the perfume commands a sense of occasion but feels thoroughly contemporary.
The scent itself is beautifully balanced, with a citrus aroma reminiscent of the original Coco Mademoiselle. Offering seasonal versatility, the fragrance boasts a soft lychee, rose, and grapefruit finish that gives it summer allure. Light yet subtly musky, the scent has enough presence to garner compliments without feeling overpowering. Importantly, it isn't overly sweet.
Thanks to rich amber vanilla base notes, the perfume has a distinctive warmness that lends it to winter spritzing too. That year-round balance is perhaps its biggest strength.
Longevity is equally impressive. It develops beautifully on the skin rather than disappearing after the first few hours, leaving behind that all-important soft, musky trail. Five hours after spritzing, I can still detect the sweet amber-patchouli profile on my wrists and neck – though you’d definitely need a small spritz before heading out again for the evening.
Buy now £117.00, Chanel.com
Is the Chanel Coco Mademoiselle crush absolu perfume worth it?
The Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Coco Absolu smells expensive and fresh without feeling too mature, arguably geared toward younger perfume fans who want something sophisticated. For me, Crush Absolu is a more playful take on the classic Coco Mademoiselle while retaining Chanel’s unrivalled luxury.
And with Gracie as the campaign star, the new perfume is sure to become a Christmas gifting favourite. Beautiful packaging, impressive longevity, plenty of compliments and a youthful Chanel twist make Coco Mademoiselle Crush Absolu worth the wait.
The new perfume will launch on Wednesday 19 August.
Why trust me?
Daisy has been reviewing beauty for six years for publications including The Standard and The Independent. Covering everything from lip liners and bronzers to hair tools and fragrance, she thoroughly tests each product to find out if it offers the best value for money.
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