Like some modern Robinson Crusoe, I clambered out of the water and over the jagged rocks on to a pebble beach, pushing aside leafy branches as I peered back out to sea.
Thankfully, the sight that greeted me was not a shipwreck but the small vessel Esperanza, moored 100 yards off shore.
My desert island was actually a small cove on an islet along the Dalmatian coast, which I’d reached during a daily swim stop on my Sail Croatia cruise, and I was soon back on board for a three-course lunch and the departure for our next port.
Our week-long voyage began three days earlier in Dubrovnik, which since Game Of Thrones seems even more like a film set with its city walls, towers and stone streets.
At its port of Gruz, we boarded Esperanza and quickly toured the four main decks – a sunbathing area on top, the outside seating and main dining saloon below it, and two levels of cabins, including our spacious en suite room.
Soon we met our tour manager Boris and hard-working waitresses Martina and Silvia, who every day set out a buffet breakfast and served lunch.
Unusually for a cruise, most dinners aren’t taken on board, so there’s a chance to savour local food ashore.
The one exception was the first night when the 27 passengers – the ship can take 38 – gathered for a very informal captain’s dinner.
We arrived for our first night’s mooring at the island of Mljet in time to enjoy a drink at a shoreside bar with a front-row seat for a spectacular sunset.
Our swim stop the following day was off an island opposite the port of Hvar.
From a platform at the stern, we dived, jumped or lowered ourselves into the warm sea, grabbing an inflatable ring or snorkel if we wanted.
Later a water taxi arrived to take us ashore, where we headed to the fortress high above Hvar for panoramic views of the old town, bay and surrounding islands.
After taking the winding path and steps down, we sat at a water’s edge bar to watch our ship sail gracefully in to moor alongside gleaming superyachts.
One big advantage of this type of trip is docking in ports overnight.
We were close enough to hear the throbbing music of the seafront clubs and could have stayed out until daybreak if we wanted.
Sail Croatia has a variety of cruises for all ages and activities, from young party trips to hiking or cycling breaks.
Our Elegance cruise was aimed at an older clientele but ages in our group ranged from the 30s up to the 70s, with passengers from Australia and the US, as well as the UK.
After Hvar, we sailed the short distance to Stari Grad where we visited a vineyard for wine tasting and a meal of lamb, veal and vegetables – everything locally sourced.
Over the following days we took a walking tour in Split of the old town based around a 4th-century Roman palace, savoured delicious cakes in Makarska and rode buggies to a beautiful beach on the island of Korcula.
In the evenings we sought out cocktail bars, strolling along wide promenades or down steep narrow alleyways.
One of the best views of Korcula must be from the top of the Massimo bar, reached by climbing a ladder on to the castellated roof, where you sip drinks sent up the side of the tower by a pulley system.
Our last full day was spent back in Dubrovnik before we disembarked the following morning, waving a grateful farewell to the crew.
This was cruising with a big sea. Devoid of spas, stage shows and other distractions, it was all about the scenery, the ports, the company and the experience.
We had hours to simply sit on deck, lie on a lounger or relax in the hot tub, watching rocky outcrops float by on an inky blue sea, with the occasional village, lighthouse or church breaking up the verdant hillsides.
The Croatians have a word for that happy state of mind when you aspire to do nothing: fjaka. I truly found it on this leisurely island-hopping odyssey.
Book the holiday
Sail Croatia offers a seven-night cruise on Esperanza, leaving Dubrovnik on April 23, 2023, from £1,099 per person. Flights extra. Find out more at sail-croatia.com.
Find more info at croatia.hr/en-gb
