Tucked away on Broad Street is Hort’s Townhouse, which reopened in March after a monumental refurbishment across the entire building. Previously Horts, it was been a well-known haunt in the city centre for decades, principally as a sports pub in recent years, having been taken over by hospitality group Youngs.
Having closed last June for a major makeover, BristolLive was given a sneak preview of the work in February. Now called Hort's Townhouse, the entire Grade II-listed building has been gutted and redesigned in nine months and is completely unrecognisable, with an Art Deco theme throughout, first opening its doors on March 23.
I would hasten to call it a pub - more of a bar and restaurant - but Youngs has been firm on the fact Hort’s Townhouse still very much is despite its big transformation, having introduced 19 beautiful boutique rooms across two floors that were previously left unused. The beautiful new dining area is welcoming to walk-ins and not restricted to the overnight guests.
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Inside, it's impossible to believe there was ever a sports bar here. You’re greeted with an expansive bar along the length of the room stocked with well-known lagers and ales, an entire distillery of spirits and wines from around the globe. Regulars will remember the cinema room, which is no longer, making more space for dining.
The dining area has been carefully curated into little breakout areas, a mix of plush sofas and tables with a larger seating section at the back by the pass. I came for an early-morning breakfast on a weekday, which was calm with only a soft murmur from some of the overnighters.
Hort’s Townhouse has everything you’d expect on a brunch menu - buttermilk pancakes, eggs benedict and obligatory avocado on toast as well as a coffee deal for £7 with a homemade pastry.
The full vegetarian breakfast was well assembled but a little frugal on some components and generous on others. But each ingredient was clearly very high quality, the mushrooms were almost buttery in texture, unlike the undercooked leathery versions you see on some other English breakfast plates. The roasted tomatoes were sweet and soft without watery, perhaps benefiting only from a smidge more seasoning.
Hort's Townhouse proudly boasts Burford Brown eggs on its breakfast menu, perfectly poached so the deep orange yolk had a satisfying ooze when cut through. I’d never had mushroom and tarragon sausages before - a subtle flavour that was on the verge of being bland, but certainly different.
Spinach was subbed in for curly kale - a pleasing substitute for me - which was nice and crispy but slightly too oily. The singular hash brown was so good I could have had a bowl full and the toast needed butter but a well-balanced breakfast.
Admittedly, £12 is a costly breakfast but the proof was in the produce, locally-sourced and packed full of flavour. It felt like a treat. The signature full English has a slightly higher mark-up at £14 a pop, a testament to the meat sourced from leading UK farmers like Windsor estate streaky bacon and black pudding from Stornoway.
Breakfast is only served until 10am on weekdays but there is no doubt the chic, art deco backdrop will attract the weekend brunch crowd in their droves, with bloody marys (£9.50), mimosas (£9) and even a breakfast Martini for £12. The main menu is a little smaller than expected but nods to the venue’s past as a seafood restaurant - including oysters - and offers a modern take on classic pub food, including fish pie (£18), fish and chips (£17.50) and the pub's signature burger (£16.50).
There is an afternoon tea option at £22 per person and Sunday roasts for £20 each. Bar snacks and lighter bites are available.
Youngs has been brave to reinvent the city centre pub, changing its course from a popular sports bar to 1920s-style dining. Note, you will no longer be able to catch the game here and it's undeniably food-led, but the doors are still open to those wanting just a pint or two.
Hort's Townhouse, 49 Broad Street, Bristol BS1 2EP. Breakfast is served Monday - Friday: 7am - 10am, Saturday - Sunday: 8am - 10.30am; lunch daily 11.30 - 5pm; afternoon tea 2pm - 5pm; dinner 5pm - 9.30pm. Book now online at https://www.hortstownhousebristol.co.uk/.
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