German climbing brand Edelrid has announced a new type of belay assistance that it says will lead to greater safety in the sport.
The OHMEGA is designed to be used on the first piece of protection when climbing a wall, crag or mountain and aims to reduce the load on a belayer if the lead climber falls. The lightweight device should also reduce rope drag for the lead climber.
The new device, which will go on sale next August, has been tested by Edelrid athlete and top climber Tommy Caldwell, who described it as “ingenious”.
“I’ve seen many accidents that could have been avoided by using the OHMEGA. After trying it once, you also realize just how easy it is to use," says Caldwell.
“The device itself weighs little more than a standard quickdraw [the name for a piece of climbing equipment]."
How does the Edelrid OHMEGA work?
The OHMEGA, which weighs just 170g, has an integrated Dyneema sling to offer three different braking levels. This is operated by a simple hand movement to suit the weight distribution.
An integrated pulley keeps the friction generated at the first bolt, or point of climbing protection, so users won’t notice the OHMEGA when climbing or clipping in the rope.
Another advantage is that the belayer should find it easier to belay dynamically and softly.
In the event of a fall, the cam brakes the fall, supporting the belayer. The additional braking effect also balances out any weight differences between climbers. As a result, the belayer won’t be pulled off the ground or into the wall in the event of a big fall.
With falls from a low height, the braking effect of the OHMEGA reduces the risk of both the climbing partners colliding and the climber hitting the ground. The OHMEGA also brakes if the climber falls into the device.
Caldwell added: “I wouldn’t be surprised if the OHMEGA were to become a standard piece of gear for the climbing community.”
