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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Comment
Orhan Pamuk

I’ve never seen such clampdowns in Istanbul. Turkey’s democracy is fighting for its life

Protesters avoid gas deployed by Turkish riot police outside Istanbul's city hall, 22 March 2025.
Protesters avoid gas deployed by Turkish riot police outside Istanbul's city hall, 22 March 2025. Photograph: Kemal Aslan/AFP/Getty Images

Since the arrest earlier this month of President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan’s main political rival, Istanbul mayor Ekrem İmamoğlu, on what are clearly trumped-up charges of corruption and terrorism, Taksim Square, the city’s biggest tourist site and hub of political protest, has been lying empty, cordoned off by police. In my 50 years living in Istanbul, I have not seen as many so-called security measures on the streets as I have over the past few days.

Taksim’s metro station and many of the city’s other busiest stations have been closed. The regional government has restricted car and intercity bus access to Istanbul. The police are checking incoming vehicles, and anyone suspected of travelling to the city to protest is turned away. Here and all over the country, televisions are permanently switched on so people can follow the latest distressing political developments. For the past week, the Istanbul governor’s office has banned public protests and political demonstrations – rights enshrined in the constitution. Yet spontaneous unauthorised protests and clashes with the police have continued unabated, even though internet access has been restricted in an attempt to prevent gatherings. The police use teargas ruthlessly and have arrested countless people.

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