Laser hair removal on the face is an excellent treatment for those wishing to tackle anything from unwanted peach fuzz to wiry, prickly patches. However, because the subject of facial hair is often deemed taboo, it can be shrouded in mystery - which I discovered when I began my own treatment journey.
Lots of women have facial hair, from upper lip fuzz to chin hair, particularly during and after menopause, when a drop in oestrogen means male hormones (androgens) can become dominant. A common side effect of this hormonal shift is hirsutism, which the NHS describes as excessive growth of dark or coarse hair in a male-like pattern, in places like the face, chest and back.
As well as androgens, genetics, and age are other common factors that cause female facial hair growth, but polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) is where I step into the equation, as one of the estimated 10% of women with the condition. Although many women are completely comfortable not removing facial hair, I personally have chosen to with laser treatment. So, with the help of Michelle Lambert, senior consultant at Pulse Light Clinic, and Dr Anjali Mahto of the British Association of Dermatologists, I'll unpack everything I wish I'd known before having laser hair removal on the face.
9 things I wish I'd known before having laser hair removal on the face
1. It's not for every hair type
Sorry to shatter any dreams of laser as a one-size-fits-all hair removal from the face solution, but some individuals need not apply. As Lambert explains, "It doesn’t work on red hair or blonde hair or very fine hair. The hair needs to have some sort of texture." That's not to say that it's curtains on your dreams of permanent hair removal, because electrolysis, which is the only FDA-approved permanent hair removal solution, works on any hair or skin type. Our electrolysis vs laser hair removal guide can help you weigh up both options.
Dr Mahto is keen to debunk another piece of conventional wisdom - that only people with lighter skin tones and dark hair should have laser hair removal. She adds, "laser technology has advanced in recent years, increasing the number of people who can have laser hair removal safely, including people with very light skin tones and darker skin tones."
2. It's reduction, not removal
Even in the most successful cases, laser hair removal is better described as hair reduction than removal, with up to 90% hair reduction considered a successful outcome. After your required amount of treatments, which depend on a myriad of factors, excessive hair may be permanently reduced, or you may need top-up sessions.
Personally, even after one session, I noticed that many of the darker hairs were growing more slowly. However, my blonde hair lived up to the rule that laser hair removal for the face isn't quite as effective for us blondies, so I've kept my best dermaplane tools in action to whip off peach fuzz.
As with all Tweezerman tools, this is made to last, with an ultra-sharp safety blade (and spares in the pack) as well as a robust handle for control.
3. PCOS makes things more complicated
Unfortunately for my fellow PCOS readers, the condition does make the process less straightforward. When it comes down to androgenic hair growth (the kind PCOS causes), be prepared for an ongoing battle. It's a case-by-case thing, and won't be clear until you undergo the first batch of appointments, but hormone fluctuations are likely to mean ongoing treatment is needed.
So how long can you expect to go without needing a top-up? According to Lambert, "Many clients achieve three to six-month intervals on the face long term and yearly or even more on the body areas." Personally, as the technician warned me from the beginning, some of my blonde hairs may well be staying put no matter how hard I try.
4. Sunight will become your enemy
You'd better get a good deal on the best facial sunscreen, because you're going to need to make factor 50 your new religion between laser sessions. Lambert says, "When we treat the skin, the light penetrates the skin; if you have active pigment on the skin or you have tanned, it will pick up on that. So, it will end up burning the skin." Dr Mahto agrees, adding, "avoid direct sunlight on the treated area, and avoid sunbeds or other tanning equipment. Making use of shade to avoid the sun is better than using sunscreen."
Shade is great, but some sun exposure is unavoidable as we go about our daily lives - in which case a robust, reliable and trustworthy SPF, like this one from Ultrasun is a must.
5. You'll have to arrive hairy
Before you think of waxing or plucking away with your tweezers, please put down the tools ahead of having laser hair removal on the face. "It’s very important that the hair is present because we only treat where the hair is growing," says Lambert.
"We need to assess the hair every time you come in, because you may need to test the patch again," she adds. "Also, we want to see if the hair is reducing or changing its texture." If you absolutely must remove hair, the experts suggest trimming or even shaving the area so the root is still present, which brings me to my next OMG moment...
6. Your face will be shaved by the technician
Once the technician has assessed your hair and decided what fuzz they're going to target in your session, they shave it all off. For the female-identifying among us, facial shaving is pretty uncommon owing to its association with masculinity. The good news is, the old wives' tales suggesting that shaving makes your hair thicker and darker just ain't true.
Now, prepare to sit down because you may be as shocked as I was - it was a dry shave. Yes, a dry shave! This was beyond counterintuitive for someone who normally seeks out hair removal for sensitive skin, but luckily, it felt fine and didn't irritate my skin. Allowing your aesthetician to prep your skin using one of the best razors for women will better serve you and your treatment journey.
7. How laser hair removal for the face actually feels
Pain is entirely relative and individual, just ask any tattoo artist! I'd describe my own threshold as slightly above average, and in all honesty, I was blown away by how fast and painless the whole experience of having laser hair removal on the face actually was. It's best described as a sort of flicking feeling. Dr Mahto explains, "Laser hair removal works by vaporising hair with a laser. Despite sounding quite dramatic, it is often compared to having a rubber band snapped against the skin, uncomfortable, but not particularly painful."
Mahto adds, "You may find after treatment that the skin on your face is red or mildly puffy; however, this should die down quickly. Your treating practitioner will give you advice and aftercare following your treatment and any active ingredients to avoid on the skin."
This ultra soothing and calming serum would be perfect to slather on after a laser session. It contains buzzy ingredient ectoin, which deeply hydrates and bolsters the skin barrier, as well as cushioning ceramides, and is alcohol and fragrance-free.
8. It can stimulate hair growth
Everything has a risk factor, and the reality is that undergoing laser hair removal on the face comes with a myriad of risks, which your technician should make you aware of from the get-go. Dr Mahto says these can include, "blistering, scarring, and pigmentation issues. There is also a rare risk of increased hair growth following treatment."
Yes, you read that right! In some rare cases, laser hair removal may encourage thicker, darker hair to grow or regrow in an area next to the one being treated. Luckily this issue, paradoxical hypertrichosis, is fairly uncommon and hasn't affected me so far, but the area most at risk is the face.
This is an extra reason to ensure that you allow for regrowth ahead of your treatment. As Lambert explains, "the face is hormone governed, meaning the hair is very sensitive and prone to stimulation. Hence, it is very important you do come with hair, so we can assess the hair."
9. What you can't do afterwards
Be incredibly cautious when pencilling in your appointments, ensuring the following 48 hours don't include any fitness or makeup. Don't be a fool like me and book hot yoga and a hot date the day after, because getting sweaty and applying makeup products on your face is a no-no.
"When you have your treatment, your skin is heated and it gets hot," says Lambert. "So, you can’t wear make-up for 48 hours after, as you can get a skin breakout. If you really desire to apply makeup, then a minimal amount can be applied. This is because minimal makeup only sits on the surface; it won’t irritate the skin. However, it must be stressed that some makeup contains chemicals that may irritate the skin."
If you'd rather not go 48 hours without makeup, you need this foundation for your post-laser periods. It's specially designed to be ultra breathable and suitable for use after procedures - as well as on skin with psoriasis, eczema and rosacea.
