Bottomless brunches don't quite have the same appeal for me as they did when the phenomena first rose to popularity in the mid-2010s. Perhaps it's maturity, or maybe it is the rising cost of living relative to earnings, but paying a small fortune for avocado and eggs (which, let's face it, anyone can make) while downing gallons of cheap prosecco to try and get my money's worth doesn't make for a great weekend outing anymore.
Despite having written them off, the prospect of a long weekend and a seemingly too-good-to-be-true deal nudged me to dip my toe back into the all-you-can-stomach waters with a visit to Zerodegrees' microbrewery, which looms discreetly over the top of Christmas Steps. More lunch than brunch, Zerodegrees has just launched a bottomless offer on weekends from 12pm to 4pm for £25 per person, rising to £30 after the first weekend in May.
But this is not your typical prosecco fest. For most bottomless deals, the unlimited part of the menu only applies to the drinks, which aren't often the best quality. Zerodegrees is cranking things up a notch by offering not only a choice of its craft beers (or prosecco) on tap but all-you-can-eat wood-fired pizzas too.
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I have to confess that despite walking past Zerodegrees for years, I've never actually ventured inside. It could be something to do with the way the building cleverly blends into the high curved walls along Colston Street, which masks it slightly, but as soon as I walked in, I was amazed by the vastness of the space split across two levels with seating for 220 and three different outside seating areas.
Zerodegrees Bristol opened in 2004, and the decor is more industrial-meets-trendy than the hipster-core beloved of most tap rooms. Surprisingly, despite its appearance, the building originated in the 19th century as stables for the horses that pulled some of Bristol's first trams.
The horses are long gone, as are the trams, and the enormous lower level is occupied by a sizeable well-stocked bar at one end (with a pool table hidden behind) and a wood-fired pizza oven at the other. Taking a table in between the two, I ordered from a choice of three core brews included in the deal - a hoppy IPA, a pilsner and a mango beer, starting with the latter, which has a pleasant tartness, while my dining partner opted for the light, bready pilsner.
We were given a starter of tomato-topped bruschetta drizzled with copious amounts of oil and basil to accompany the drinks. Fresh and punchy, it proved an excellent way to whet the appetite, especially as I'd purposefully not eaten all morning in anticipation of what would come.
The menu for the bottomless deal comprises seven different individual 12-inch pizzas. As well as standards like Margherita and Americana, there's meatier fare such as BBQ chicken and Parma ham, as well as a wood-roasted vegetable option.
We opted for a caramelised pear and gorgonzola, which piqued my curiosity with its ranch dressing topping, and another topped with Portobello mushroom and sundried tomato. The pizza came out swiftly, and our 90-minute countdown clock in which to consume as much as physically possible began.
The pizza bases at Zerodegrees are light and not too chewy, which is helpful if you plan to eat several. But the absence of any mayonnaise or similar to dip the crusts in meant that despite a tasty dough, we discarded our edges.
Upon arrival, I suspected that the pear pizza was lacking in the topping, but underneath a forest of rocket leaves, I realised there were actually ample amounts of salty gorgonzola and creamy taleggio complementing sweet segments of fruit and chunks of walnut. It could almost have been too rich were it not for the bright flavours of the Neapolitan tomato sauce and the tang of ranch dressing drizzled on top. I'd go back for this pizza alone.
The mushroom option is similarly generous, swathed in a thick layer of cheese with pops of sundried tomato and pesto surrounding plenty of meaty mushrooms. With so much packed on to each pizza, I imagine many people would struggle to eat more than one, and despite my plan not to eat beforehand, I found myself flagging at the first hurdle.
But as a consummate professional, I pushed on and sampled the salty but delicate parma ham pizza, with oodles of parmesan, peppery rocket, and gossamer-thin slices of meat. Our friendly waitress was attentive throughout the meal, offering top-ups and more pizzas, but unfortunately, we had to tap out after three.
With more time left on the clock, however, this allowed us to continue enjoying Zerodegree's craft beers on its sunny balcony, with views down Christmas Steps; it's an excellent spot for relaxing in, just a stone's throw from the city centre.
Zerodegrees' bottomless lunch is that most rare of deals: an all-you-can-eat menu with quality food and drink that you wouldn't be disappointed with paying full price for. What's even better is that this offer really lends itself to large group gatherings, which, as the cost of eating out soars, have become fewer and further between.
It will still be good value after the price goes up to £30 in May, but I'd recommend getting in early and making the most of this introductory offer - just be sure you bring a big appetite.
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