Multi-cookers are as the name suggests, versatile kitchen appliances that can do everything from slow cooking to pressure cooking. And many, like the Ninja Foodi 15-in-1 SmartLid multi-cooker, even rival some of the best Ninja air fryers. So while on the face of it, they appear to be a huge investment, when you consider the versatility of a multi-cooker, the cost becomes more justifiable.
Unlike previous iterations, Ninja’s SmartLid range of multi-cookers have been cleverly designed to remove the requirement for two separate lids. Before this you would need to switch between the lids depending on the cooking function you want to use.
The MAX 15-in-1 is the larger of the two SmartLid multi-cookers in the range, with the capacity to cook an entire 3kg chicken. I tried it in my own home and was intrigued to see how it would fare in comparison to the best air fryers, as well as cheaper dual-lid models and whether it’s a worthwhile investment.
Ninja Foodi MAX 15-in-1 specifications
- RRP: £319.99
- Dimensions: H43.8 x W39.1 x D39.8 cm
- Modes available: Pressure Cook, Air Fry, Grill, Bake, Dehydrate, Prove, Sear/Sauté, Steam, Slow Cook, Yoghurt, Steam Meals, Steam Air Fry, Steam Bake, Steam Bread, Steam Roast
- Dishwasher safe? Yes
- Maximum temperature: 210°C
- Maximum timer: Up to 12 hours depending on function being used
My first impressions of the Ninja Foodi MAX 15-in-1
Once I got the multi-cooker unpacked and onto my worktop, it appeared slightly chunkier than the earlier Ninja multi-cooker models that I’d reviewed. But considering there’s so much tech and functionality in one appliance, it’s worth the space it takes up.
It comes with the main non-stick cooking pot and a reversible cooking rack as well as a perforated air fryer basket. The best part is, all the accessories can go in the dishwasher, so cleaning should be a doddle.
As is typical for Ninja appliances, there’s a really thorough instruction manual as well as a recipe book packed with inspiration and lots of cooking charts giving suggested time and temperature settings to get you started.
Having 15 cooking functions to get to grips with in one appliance, can at first seem a bit daunting. However, the control panel layout and design makes it really intuitive to use. A slider on the front locks the lid into one of three positions. Each position allows you to access different cooking functions. Then, once you’ve selected a function, you simply adjust the time and temperature using the corresponding arrows either side of the screen, and that’s it.
Some people are understandably a little nervous with steam pressure valves, but there's no need to worry about this with the 15-in-1, as it features an automatic release. This is one significant upgrade from the 11-in-1, as well as the meat probe included to remotely monitor your food's cooking progress from afar.
How does the Ninja Foodi MAX 15-in-1 perform?
To get to grips with this multi-cooker, I made some simple steamed broccoli. The included cooking charts suggested six minutes. So after adding some water to the cooking pot and inserting the reversible rack, I placed the broccoli florets onto the rack.
Luckily the florets were quite chunky, otherwise they'd have fallen through the gaps, so if you want to steam anything smaller, it’d be worth investing in an additional accessory. Nevertheless, after the slightly lengthy seven-minute preheat, the six minute steam time was perfect and the broccoli had just the right al-dente texture.
In addition to steam cooking, this clever appliance is unique in its ability to steam and air fry simultaneously. So I used this function to cook some skin-on chicken thighs. With water in the pot and the chicken breasts on the rack, I set the timer for 20 minutes.
Cooking took an extra six minutes due to the preheat time, but at the end I was rewarded with beautifully succulent chicken that had a crisp, golden skin on top. The ability to air fry foods, browning and crisping the outside whilst simultaneously using steam to avoid drying them, offers endless possibilities.
For those who want to cook larger cuts of meat in the 15-in-1, Ninja's Smart Cook probe system will precisely monitor your cooking progress to ensure your food isn't over or undercooked. The probe comes with preset or manual modes, so you can either follow recipes with precise temperature guidance, or follow Ninja's in-built presets from Rare through to Well done (with different settings for Fish, Beef, Chicken and Pork) as well as Shred, for tender pull-apart joints of meat.
A slow cooked beef chilli not only gave me the opportunity to use the slow cooker, but I also made use of the sear/ saute function to brown the beef and saute the onions first. This is a great example of how you can do everything in one pot.
The chilli bubbled away for six hours on the high heat slow cook setting. When it was time to dish up, it was rich, tasty and perfectly thickened.
To go with the chilli, I pressure cooked some brown basmati rice. This is where a second pot would have come in handy (you can buy additional pots separately) because I had to decant the chilli into a different dish before cooking the rice.
Once again, I referred to the cooking chart and followed the advice, not only for time and temperature, but also rice and water quantities. This made life easy, but if you wanted to cook a different amount, there might be some trial and error involved.
The 200g rice cooked for seven minutes on high pressure, but once you add on the seven minute preheat and the 10 minute delay before releasing the pressure, the whole process was closer to 25 minutes, which isn’t far off the cooking time on the hob. The joy of it comes in not having to keep an eye on a saucepan on the hob, plus the fact that the rice was perfectly cooked.
While it doesn’t have the convenient dimensions of a family size standalone air fryer, there’s no denying it can replace an air fryer. The perforated air frying basket has a 4.7 litre capacity, which is about the same as one side of a dual basket air fryer.
There was more than enough room in the basket for a couple of portions of homemade chips. After being soaked in cold water for 30 minutes, then dried and lightly coated in oil, the chips took 25 minutes to cook. I gave them a couple of stirs during cooking, which resulted in evenly browned and nicely crisped chips, with fluffy centres. Despite cooking a variety of foods and meals for this review, I still feel I’ve only scratched the surface of what this multi-cooker is capable of, and it’ll take weeks to make full use of the huge variety of cooking functions.
How does the Ninja Foodi MAX 15-in-1 compare?
If you’re feeding a family then you should consider the Ninja Foodi FlexDrawer. Admittedly it can’t do as much as the multi-cooker, but it’s probably the best large capacity air fryer around. And if you’re not so bothered about functions like pressure cook and slow cook, it’s a great alternative.
If however, you think a multi-cooker is what you need but you're daunted by the size, then it’s also worth checking out the Ninja Foodi 11-in-1 SmartLid. It lacks the cooking probe and has four fewer functions: Prove, Steam Meals, Steam Bread and Steam Roast. However, it still features steam cooking functionality and comes in £20 cheaper than the 15-in-1.
Should you buy the Ninja Foodi MAX 15-in-1?
The Ninja Foodi 15-in-1 SmartLid Multi-Cooker is undoubtedly one of the best multi-cookers you can buy. Even if you’re new to multi-cookers, its intuitive control panel and simple single lid design, mean it’s effortless to use. It's also got automatic steam release, which is a blessing for those who are a bit nervous around steam pressure valves.
The versatile range of cooking functions offers endless possibilities in terms of meals and recipes, so there’s no reason for it to become another dust-covered appliance cluttering your worktop. Its performance is top-notch, the only catch is the hefty price tag.
About this review, and the reviewer
After completing a Home Economics degree, Helen went on to work for the Good Housekeeping Institute and has been reviewing home appliances ever since. She lives in a small village in Buckinghamshire in the UK. She is now freelance and draws on her wealth of experience to review a huge variety of home appliances.
Helen used the Ninja Foodi FlexDrawer Air Fryer at home for over a week to cook tasty meals for herself and her husband. She was allowed to keep the multi-cooker after the review for continued testing.
