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Liverpool Echo
Liverpool Echo
Entertainment
Narin Flanders

I took a trip that made me see the Lake District in a totally different light

As one of the UK's most picturesque holiday destinations, the Lake District is top of many people's travel wishlists for its ideal mix of nature, great places to eat and plenty to do.

But, having been to the Lakes half a dozen times over the years, I realised on a recent visit that some lakes are more well-known than others. I've always stayed around the more headline-grabbing areas of Windermere, Ambleside and Bowness and, pulling into the drive at Armathwaite Hall Hotel and getting my first glimpse of the stunning landscape around Bassenthwaite Lake, I realised I had been missing out on a Cumbrian hidden gem - although I soon realised that applied as much the Hall itself as its beautiful surroundings.

One of the original stately homes of England, there has been a manor house has been on the site in some form or another since around the 11th Century, although records about the main house go back to a relatively youthful 1548.

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Over the years Armathwaite Hall has hosted and housed many generations of nobility, a Cumbrian Member of Parliament and even - during the Second World War - an entire girls' school which was evacuated to the hall.

But in modern times it has become the ultimate destination for holidaymakers looking for luxury and the chance to get out and enjoy the natural beauty the area has to offer but aren't necessarily walking-boots-and-hiking-poles sorts of people. What's more, for us, it was the perfect base to explore parts of the Lake District we hadn't visited before.

Derwentwater was a great walk for non-hikers - not too strenuous but with plenty of great views even on grey day (Narin Flanders)

We drove 10 minutes down the road to Keswick and enjoyed a gentle but lengthy early morning stroll around the largely flat and easy to navigate Derwentwater. Walking hand in hand in the early morning mist we barely saw another soul, instead enjoying listening to the birdsong and watching the rain roll in and then pass in a way unlike anything I've ever seen before.

The walk around the lake was flat enough to chat comfortably so we meandered for several hours before heading back to explore the town, stopping for coffee and pastry sat at a table outside on a cobbled street watching the world go by.

The pretty town centre is packed with quirky shops attracting tourists and locals alike, and in a short walk back to the main car park we found ourselves buying posh cheese and flavoured gins from several independent food shops packed with tempting treats.

Still, when you've just done a brisk five mile walk it's totally justified to buy a wheel of smoked brie to enjoy with biscuits, right? I have no regrets.

The other foodie delight of the holiday - outside of the hotel's own restaurant at least - was much closer to home. Bassenthwaite Lake Station is a train station which was closed as part of Doctor Beeching's famous report into the state of national railways in the 1960s. Largely derelict for decades, it has found a new lease of life as an unconventional tea room which has a glitzy afternoon tea unlike any I've ever had.

Diners can enjoy an afternoon tea on the train Kenneth Branagh, Johnny Depp and other actors filmed the recent Murder on the Orient Express movie on. (Narin Flanders)

I've never had the budget to eat lunch on the Orient Express, but thanks to the creativity of the husband and wife team behind the restaurant, Simon and Di, any visitor can for just £35 - although it's actually the Art Deco carriage in which Kenneth Branagh, Johnny Depp and other stars filmed the most recent Murder On The Orient Express.

I love afternoon tea, both the ritual of it and the pull of lots of small, tempting cakes. Not only was this incredibly generously portioned for the money (don't worry, you can take home anything you are unable to finish) but the food was just wonderful.

As well as traditional cakes, scones and sandwiches there were some delicious hot morsels - I loved the pulled beef on a Yorkshire pudding with gravy while my husband loved the mini chicken burger - and also an amazing home made malt loaf with salted local butter the thought of which makes my mouth water several weeks later.

It really was a must-visit and is somewhere I'll be returning to again. The stylish surroundings were also a lovely companion to Armathwaite Hall itself, which is the kind of hotel that just feels steeped in old world glamour and history, but has all the modern home touches you need for a restful break..

With luxurious bedrooms and stunning views, Armathwaite Hall is the perfect getaway for a romantic break (Narin Flanders)

We stayed in a junior suite, which had a marbled luxury bathroom complete with underfloor heating and a waterfall shower and a lounge area with big-screen TV, sofa, fridge and eye-catching feature electric fire perfect for relaxing in front of before heading to the huge and comfortable bed.

Everything you might need, from Dyson hairdryer to bathrobe and slippers for heading down to the spa through to posh toiletries and refreshments, is on hand but if there's anything you're missing the staff are ready to leap into action.

They even offer you a welcoming glass of sherry on check-in to enjoy in the lounge in front of the roaring fire before heading up to your room.

During our stay we had drinks in the cosy, chilled out bar area which had a jazz soundtrack, a New York type modern atmosphere and a reasonable hotel bar price tag of £14 for a pint and a large glass of red wine.

The staff there also prepare the drinks for the contemporary Brasserie restaurant which serves a generous breakfast every morning and then food through the day. What we loved about it was twofold - the service was friendly but impeccable but the food was perfect whether you fancied a hearty plate of no-fuss fish and chips or something a bit more Michelin. Their lemon and honey dessert, a stunning plate of honey brittle, warm Italian meringue, tart lemon curd and crunchy oat biscuit was one of the most delicious things I've eaten for ages and showed clearly why they're AA Rosette winners.

I've never had such an urge to stay in my hotel on a visit to the Lakes before but it was a testament to how much there is to do on-site ranging from wild swimming to guided walks, visiting the hotel's sister Wildlife Park on a neighbouring estate and many other activities.

But after our long walk earlier in the day and having basically decided we were now hibernating in the hotel for the rest of our stay we decided to take things decidedly more slowly.

Armathwaite Hall Hotel and Spa is set in 400 acres of woodland, bordered by the still waters of Bassenthwaite Lake (Narin Flanders)

The hotel has an award-winning spa with sauna, steam room, and a hydrotherapy pool as well as an extensive menu of treatments ranging from massages to beauty options. My husband had been suffering from a trapped nerve so we paid for him to get a half-hour massage to ease out some of the tension while I had an exfoliating mud wrap. Both were really relaxing and our therapist, Jenny, was friendly and not intimidating and made it a wonderful experience.

Having always visited the Lake District in the summer, visiting slightly out of season and a little more off the beaten track than before was a revelation.

Pairing long walks and chilly weather with the ultimate luxury when we finally came back to our hotel made for a romantic and memorable break.

What's more, the outdoor hot tub with views of the fens is the ultimate in relaxation - there's even an intercom you can use to buzz to ask for a glass of champagne to be bought out to you and the opportunity to do moonlit stargazing from beneath the bubbles.

It was total bliss - fresh air, great walks, good food and the ultimate escape.

Armathwaite Hall in Keswick costs from £224 a night via Booking.com, Hotels.com, Expedia or direct via the hotel's website.

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