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The Independent UK

Annabel Grossman

I stayed in this Traitors-esque Scottish hotel – here’s why you should too

Annabel Grossman

This recently renovated luxury retreat on the edge of the Scottish Highlands blends classic grandeur with modern touches, featuring a world-class golf course, a chic cocktail bar, and a range of outdoor pursuits.

Wandering through the corridors and grounds of Mar Hall, you half expect to see a couple of could-be Traitors huddled together on the plush sofas, or likely Faithfuls casting anxious glances around the drawing room. Although Mar Hall isn’t a castle (it’s actually a former stately home), it wouldn’t look out of place on the BBC show. Beyond the towering turrets, grand staircases and various nooks and crannies, it’s got a sense of humour. This is a really fun place to stay – where Scottish tradition is embraced while modern touches make it sleek, cosy and friendly.

Annabel Grossman

Location

Situated on the edge of the highlands, within 240 acres of woodland, Mar Hall is just a 15-minute drive from Glasgow airport, which makes it incredibly easy to access while also being completely immersed in the Scottish countryside. It sits on the banks of the River Clyde, across from the town of Old Kilpatrick, with views of the mountain known as the Slacks beyond.

The vibe

Following a recent renovation (work on the main building was completed earlier this year and continues on the lodges), Mar Hall feels fun and modern while also retaining a classic Scottish feel. The imposing stone exterior contrasts pleasantly with the rich, warm interiors. In the old drawing room, look out for Easter eggs in the historical portrait-style paintings – such as one gentleman weaning Nike Air Max trainers along with his regal garb. It’s the perfect illustration of classic meets contemporary.

Sleek yet cosy interiors characterise Mar Hall, including the Slainte bar (Mar Hall)

Service

Staff are unfalteringly friendly and helpful. There were some minor slip-ups from the younger (though very enthusiastic) staff, such as forgotten or misheard orders, but these were more than made up for by the positive attitude and warmth.

Bed and bath

There are 74 rooms in Mar Hall, and its owners are in the process of building self-catered lodges, which are due to be completed next year. All rooms are a good size and individually decorated, from entry level up to the cavernous grand suites (one comes with a baby grand piano, and another has a pool table). The Garden Suites each have a small outdoor area looking down towards the river or across the golf course.

There’s a sense of grandeur throughout, with high ceilings, fireplaces and plush fabrics, combined with modern touches including printed wallpapers, crushed velvet, and splashes of bright colour. Beds are kingsize, with comfy mattresses and crisp bedding. Bathrooms feature white marble with gold fixtures; all rooms have walk-in showers, while some suites have bathtubs in addition.

One of the Junior Suites. All come with views of the grounds (Mar Hall)

Food and drink

There’s a real focus on locally sourced produce at Mar Hall, and that’s reflected in all of its menus. Dinner is served in the main restaurant, with dishes including Argyll smoked salmon, Berwick crab, prime Perthshire beef, and St Brides Farm confit duck. The spicy raw beef made tableside is particularly impressive.

There is a vegetarian menu, which looked promising but was rather disappointing and lacked flavour, so I’d advise sticking to options from the main menu (with adaptations if needed). The afternoon tea, which can include a glass of champagne, is superb (this is an area where the vegetarian option is carefully thought out). There is a wonderful selection of both sweet and savoury items, exquisitely presented alongside a wide range of teas.

The cocktail bar, Slainte, is quite possibly the best part of Mar Hall, with an open fire (they’re gas rather than wood-burning at this hotel, but still very cosy) and velvet sofas you can sink into, as well as a sleek bar with an excellent array of spirits. Chief mixologist Chris will be only too happy to talk you through the drinks on offer, and the signature cocktail menu has a range of beautifully crafted choices, including Highland Mist (a rich, slightly sweet blend of Dalmore cigar malt, Secret Garden pinot noir vermouth and Dom Benedictine), and the rum-based Riverside, which perfectly combines mango, ginger and raspberry lemonade.

Locally sourced produce is a priority in the Dining Room (Mar Hall)

Facilities

The spa at Mar Hall includes a large pool, a sauna and steam rooms, as well as a variety of treatments. There’s also a large, fully equipped gym that looks out onto the pool. Then there’s that world-class golf course stretching along the Clyde, with spectacular views to the hills beyond.

Mar Hall really stands out in the experiences it offers, a range of quintessentially Scottish activities that fully embrace the outdoors. The off-roading trips with 4x4 Scottish Adventures are rip-roaring fun and a great way to explore further afield, while activities including archery, air rifle shooting and clay pigeon shooting are available at the property.

The swimming pool is overlooked by a large, well-equipped gym (Mar Hall)

Accessibility

The Garden Spa Suite Rooms are all accessible.

Pet policy

Dogs are allowed in Spa Garden Suites – where they will have direct access to the grounds – but not in communal dining areas. There is a fee of £50 per dog per night, and advance booking is essential. Your dog will be welcomed with a plush dog bed and a water bowl.