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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Tom Hunt

‘I’m going to be very cautious about buying gnocchi from now on’: the best (and worst) supermarket gnocchi, tasted and rated

A large number of gnocchi, viewed from above, laid out on a red background.
Sink or swim: which gnocchi would float to the top of our taste test? Photograph: Robert Billington/The Guardian. Food styling: Robert Billington.

Gnocchi are a godsend – my children love them – but I was shocked by the quality on offer here. Of the products I tested, 80% were made from reconstituted dried potato flakes, emulsifiers (mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids), stabilisers (diphosphates) and preservatives (sodium metabisulphate). Most came in non-recyclable packaging, too – that’s simply not real food, and unnecessary when you consider that similar long-life products are made with real potato and few preservatives. I’m going to be very cautious about buying gnocchi from now on.

Gnocchi are generally slathered in sauce, so I’d never tried them plain before, but doing so revealed their true nature, as did studying the ingredients labels. Also, I was taught to cook gnocchi until they floated, which usually takes only a minute when you make them from scratch, but most manufacturers advise boiling them for two or three minutes, not until they floated, which left me wondering whether they were even cooked at all.

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