Winding our way through the cluster of blizzard-hardened snow gums, we finally reach "our" spot. On every summer pilgrimage to the Snowy Mountains, the yowie clan stop at this lofty lookout near Charlotte Pass to gaze across to the Main Range.

The track drops steeply down to the giant-sized stepping stones in the Snowy River and then like a pale brown snake, slithers up towards Mount Twynam and beyond. It's usually while soaking up this view that I slap an extra Band-Aid on my blistered heel and assess whether we have packed enough water - it's going to be another long day trekking above the tree line.