An eclectic playlist hums through the speakers as coffee machines grind carefully selected beans, silverware clinks on Steelite crockery and overdue catch ups over oat milk cappuccinos get animated. It all feels quintessentially Mancunian, minus the Staffordshire pottery, of course, but at least the North has taste.
Set inside the Grade II-listed Sevendale House, on Lever Street, to a backdrop of white tiles, hexagonal wooden tables and hanging house plants, is Foundation Coffee House - one of three in Manchester City Centre, though the Northern Quarter venue predates its Whitworth Lock and Portland Street sisters.
The 3,500 sq ft cafe is moderately busy when I arrive at 10am, the perimeter taken up by those who have escaped working from home life for a change of scenery, laptops on desks, coffees of varying sizes beside them.
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I choose the table at which I’ll settle for the next couple of hours. With seating for 130 people, it’s nice that Foundation is busy, but you never feel like you’re about to get booted out in order for someone else to take your place. It’s open, spacious, and you’re in no danger of overstaying your welcome, so I’m not surprised to see a dozen typers using it as a home from home.
In February, the independent coffee chain quietly launched a brand new food menu, including fresh salad bowls, sandwiches, their first ever fry-up breakfast, and a mouth-watering Sticky Toffee French Toast.
Now, there are dozens of NQ foodie hotspots serving up French Toast, so seeing it on a menu in the district is nothing new. People queue for over half an hour at Federal for their ever-changing specials, while at Gooey you can order a cube of the stuff. So how would Foundation’s measure up in comparison?
Well, if you love dessert style brunches and an excuse to satisfy a sweet tooth, then their sticky toffee French toast is an absolute must. Priced at £12, it’s 50p more expensive than Gooey and £2 dearer than Federal - but 110 per cent worth it.
Few things in life are certain - but one is that no matter where we go, if Sticky Toffee Pudding is on the menu, my partner will a) mispronounce it, and b) order it. I almost felt guilty ordering it without him, but that soon subsided when my worries melted away in a pool of toffee sauce.
The doorstop brioche is loaded up with toffee sauce, a scoop of vanilla mascarpone, and finished with a pecan and date crumb. You can opt to add bacon for an additional £3, for the ultimate sweet and salty combo.
Arriving alongside my chai latte, which had an expertly poured heart on top, my Sticky Toffee French Toast was beautifully presented, attesting to the brand’s attention to detail. An inch thick slice of brioche bread, crisp on the crust but wonderfully fluffy inside, had been cut into two triangles and balanced on one another.
Toffee sauce swirled the plate, the mascarpone melting slightly under the heat, disfiguring its original quenelle shape. I was thrilled that the pecans were only a light dusting, since I’m not particularly fond of nuts, before being topped off with dates, which, admittedly, I had never previously tried.
Dates are a particularly popular fruit at this time of year, as they’re a staple for many iftar meals during Ramadan, and are a part of many desserts traditionally prepared during the holy month. The fruit is significant in Christianity and Judaism too.
The first bite is always the best, and I’m a firm believer that the initial scoop needs a little bit of everything. I wasn’t quite sure if this brunch dish really would taste like the iconic dessert that is a staple on so many restaurant menus, but immediately upon first bite, I was weak at the knees.
Decadent, soft, sticky, chewy - it was the naughtiest way imaginable to have started my day, and I regretted absolutely nothing. I’ve truly no idea why Foundation made the decision to keep this menu launch low-key - I can only imagine it was to stop dessert lovers flocking to Lever Street in droves in search of the Instagram-worthy dish.
At £12, it’s perhaps a little steep in comparison to similar dishes on other Manchester menus, but I didn’t have to queue, it was out of the kitchen within 10 minutes and I was able to lounge around in the bright and stylish venue listening to an eclectic mix of Weezer, Kylie Minogue and Travis for almost four hours, sipping endless chai lattes and, with the sun shining through the large glass windows, wondering 'when is too early for a beer from their concisely crafted alcohol menu?'
As well as an excellent brunch and lunch menu, Foundation boasts an extensive coffee menu with their own house blend from Origin. Sleek and minimalist in design, it’s one of the city’s finest spots to catch up over coffee, crack on with some work, enjoy a cocktail, or indulge in a sweet and sticky French Toast.
The twist on the classic British dessert feels particularly seasonal for Spring, and makes the ideal treat after Lent or Ramadan, or to keep the kids good during half term - but personally I don’t think you ever need a reason to treat yourself when it looks and tastes this good.
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