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Jack Moss

‘I feel like a new designer’: inside the renaissance of Tory Burch

Tory Burch A/W 2024 Collection photographed on model in white room.

‘A lampshade, a shower cap, an old barn jacket.’ So Tory Burch lists the somewhat disparate objects you would have found in her atelier earlier this year when she was creating her A/W 2024 collection, shown in February at the New York Public Library during the city’s fashion week. On a chilly winter evening, the historic space was momentarily transformed with silver panels across the walls and runway, recalling Andy Warhol’s foil-covered Factory.

After two decades in business, and now a stalwart of the American fashion scene, the New York-based designer has remodelled her brand in the past five years in what she calls a radical break from the past. Freewheeling, experimental and unafraid of getting a little weird, it is a far cry from the uptown polish – and signature ‘Reva’ ballet pumps with their metal double-T plaque – with which she was for years synonymous, and which helped make her Forbes’ second-youngest self-made female American billionaire in 2013.

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