It was an hour after I had left the Utopia Art Centre, in remote, central Australia, when our van turned off the bumpy dirt track and into the bush.
We were in the Northern Territory, one of the country’s least-populated areas. Ahead of me, a red sandstone cliff loomed over acacia trees and low-lying spinifex bushes. Local Aboriginal artists, Jennifer and Jedda Kngwarray Purvis, assured me this was the place.
