Get all your news in one place.
100's of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
The Guardian - US
The Guardian - US
Environment
Whitney Bauck in Manila, Philippines

‘I didn’t want to give up my culture’: vegan chefs reimagine Filipino dishes

RG Enriquez-Diez, a Filipino Vegan advocate and former reporter, prepares her dishes at home and broadcasts her sessions live on social media.
RG Enriquez-Diez, a Filipino vegan advocate and former reporter, prepares her dishes at home and broadcasts her sessions live on social media. Photograph: Martin San Diego/The Guardian

Bagnet is a savory Filipino treat that hails from the northern region of Ilocos, usually made by boiling and deep frying pork belly until it’s crispy and golden. But at Cosmic, a vegan restaurant in Manila, Philippines, it’s convincingly rendered using soy and starch to imitate the layers of fat and meat in the original. It’s so savory that even an omnivore might reach for seconds.

The bagnet is just one item on the Cosmic menu, which is full of vegan versions of what would otherwise be meat-centric Filipino favorites: the kare kare, a thick peanut-based stew, omits the oxtail and is packed with vegetables instead. The sinigang (a sour soup) and customer-favorite sizzling sisig feature tofu rather than fish or pork. And the “beanuguan”, Cosmic’s version of dinuguan, a stew customarily made with pork offal and blood, is instead made with black beans.

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100's of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.