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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Billie Bhatia

How to win at skin: 10 skincare and tweakment innovations to have on your radar now

Emma Lewisham Supernatural Blemish Serum (Lydia Silver)

1. ON THE SPOT

A world first, Emma Lewisham’s Supernatural Blemish Serum combats acne and blemishes by delivering a whopping 235 million live probiotic cells per dose. And while the term probiotic is now frequently bandied about in the beauty world, truly effective probiotic skincare requires that microbes are alive and kicking when applied to skin — something incredibly challenging to achieve in a room temperature-stored product with a shelf life. On the contrary, Lewisham explains that her new super serum ‘has been uniquely tested at room temperature for two years to validate that it is still able to maintain the life of Q24, a strain that naturally lives on human facial skin.’  Not only does this breakthrough make the serum’s efficacy unparalleled, it has also been clinically proven to reduce acne, oiliness and bring down inflammation. Hurrah! Emma Lewisham Supernatural Blemish Serum, £68 (emmalewisham.co.uk) 

2. LAB DIAMONDS

Having struggled with breakouts and failed to find skincare solutions for her melanin-rich skin, founder and CEO of 4.5.6 Skin, Cameroon-born Noelly Michoux, is revolutionising skincare for darker skin tones. ‘The skincare system is set only for the dermatological principles of phototypes I, II and III, which is white skin,’ notes Michoux. ‘The unique physiology and skincare needs of IV, V, VI (over 40 per cent of the global population) were completely ignored. With my co-founders, who are amazing scientists, we dedicated three years to build the world’s first Skin Tone Research Lab in the heart of the French cosmetic valley, to test, refine and produce high-efficacy products that cater solely to overlooked skins.’ (456skin.com

Face time (Getty)

3. TREATMENT TO TRY

London superfacialist Teresa Tarmey unpacks Opus by Alma, the new therapy on everyone’s lips

‘Opus is one device featuring various technologies, from fractional radio frequency (FRF) to microplasma and radio frequency,’ explains Tarmey. ‘FRF is my go-to for targeting multiple skin concerns in a single hit and is safe for all skin types and colours. It’s great for anyone who doesn’t want to go down the injectables route but still delivers that “new skin” feel — brightening, with a boost of collagen while working on scarring, lines and pore size.’ It’s worth noting that FRF requires some time out: expect two days of redness and two subsequent days of dryness, while Opus’ radio frequency needs none. ‘One session of RF is ideal for a night out,’ says Tarmey. ‘It’s like a hot stone massage that works on sculpting, texture, fine lines and contouring.’ From £550, at Teresa Tarmey, 206-208 Kensington Park Road, W11 

Peptide perfection (ES Magazine)

4. PEP TALKS

Peptides, the short amino acid chains that make up the building blocks of proteins such as collagen and elastin — the foundation of our skin — have enjoyed a lusty revival with the ever youthful Jennifer Aniston telling WSJ  that she relies on peptide jabs to support her skin. While this particular method of delivery is yet to be FDA-approved, the following peptide-packed newbies are primed to ‘add to basket’ now.  

Lancôme Renergie HPN 300-Peptide Rich Cream 

Formulated for dry skin, Lancôme’s latest innovation is deliciously rich, combining a huge 300 peptides, plus niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and a hefty squalane dose to deliver plump, supple skin. £83 (lancome.co.uk) 

Beauty Pie Youthbomb Breakthrough Repair Cream 

A heavy-hitter loaded with a 3% Nouropeptide F-25 Complex plus a wealth of bonus ingredients like polyglutamic acid and algae to leave skin smooth, toned and radiant.  Members £49 (beautypie.com )

StriVectin TL Advanced Neck Cream Plus 

Neck and jaw heading in the wrong direction? Refined with StriVectin’s most advanced tightening tech, this clever blend goes to work on slack, sagging skin, necklines and age spots. £49 (strivectin.co.uk)

Reverse manouver (Dior)

5. REVERSE MANOUVER 

A beauty breakthrough is upon us. Reverse ageing. But, how? Through manipulation of senescence, don’t you know? Virginie Couturaud, Dior Beauty scientific communications director explains: ‘Cellular senescence is an irreversible growth arrest of cells that stop playing their normal function. Senescence means “old age” in Latin, and [in this instance] is the last stage of the cell life cycle when cells stop dividing. Normally, these cells are eliminated but with age, this elimination mechanism is altered, meaning that senescent cells accumulate in the body and the skin and can spread the message of senescence to their healthy neighbours leading to the acceleration of ageing.’

In an exclusive partnership with Sorbonne University, Dior is using its knowledge of senescence to isolate these ageing cells and reduce their impact on skin. The result? Prestige Le Nectar Premier, a beautifully light serum that harnesses — among other potent actives — Rosapeptide Premier extracted from the buds of the rose de granville, cultivated at Dior’s Normandy rose garden. It acts to halt senescence at its source, reversing its age-triggering effects to improve the structure, texture and colour of skin. DIOR Prestige Le Nectar Premier, £540 (dior.com)

Drink up (Lydia Silver)

6. CAN YOU DRINK YOURSELF YOUNGER (LOOKING)?

The question of whether it’s possible to boost skin’s vitality by ingesting liquid collagen (a multi-functioning protein and building block of the skin) is one of the more controversial in the beauty world, but Anna Lahey, founder of Vida Glow, leader in science-first ingestible beauty and wellness, is convinced. ‘As a natural protein, marine collagen is an effective solution to visibly improve the appearance and health of skin, hair and nails. When you ingest a high-quality, hydrolysed marine collagen product, the collagen is absorbed and distributed into the bloodstream via the blood vessels to the dermis,’ Lahey explains. ‘Once it reaches the collagen matrix it stimulates fibroblast proliferation, triggering the production of fresh collagen to smooth wrinkles, improve skin elasticity, hydrate and plump skin.’ Intrigued? Sip on the brand’s supercharged new sachets. Collagen Liquid Advance Sachets, £40 for 15 (vidaglow.com) 

7. BIT OF A PRICK

If you haven’t yet, consider acquainting yourself with polynucleotides, the skin-boosting and regenerative injectable serving mega-watt glow. Fiona Ross, founder and clinical director of Westbourne Grove’s The Aesthetics Club, dishes the dose. ‘We can compare polynucleotides to classic hyaluronic acid (HA)-based skin-boosting treatments such as Profhilo. However, polynucleotides offer more in terms of results: as biostimulators that target the fibroblasts within the skin, they promote hydration alongside collagen and elastin production, all while plumping and tightening the skin and fighting free radicals,’ explains Ross. Ameela polynucleotide treatment, £350 per syringe at The Aesthetics Club, 79 Westbourne Park Road, W2 

Body work (Stocksy)

8. BODY WORK

Bodycare is now big business with a flurry of new arrivals making moves on all-over skin supremacy. Powered by secret weapon TFC8, which creates an optimal setting for cellular renewal, Dr Augustinus Bader’s The Body Cleanser (£43; augustinusbader.com) harnesses ceramides to lock in hydration, while a hydrolysed rice protein smooths away rough bits, for a luxe one-stop-wash. IRÄYE’s The Shaping Body Cream (£95; irayeskincare.com) uses a patent-pending complex to activate sluggish lymphatic systems in a cream that sculpts, tones and enhances the body’s contours with before and after shots that must be seen to be believed. Last but not least, healthy, radiant skin is the aim of the game for Tata Harper’s Resurfacing Body Serum (£139; spacenk.com), made with 25 high-performance botanicals including AHA superfoods to gently exfoliate the skin, for a more refined finish.

9. PIN DROP

Opening this month, the brainchild of multi award-winning dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams, The Eudelo Skin Experience Centre will fuse cutting-edge, derm-led education and exploration with retail and aesthetic treatments. Amid the exclusive offering there’s even the chance to have a work of art created from your own skin cells — an experience unavailable anywhere else in the world. Niche, but also nice. 86 Sloane Avenue, SW3 (eudelo.com) 

Caroline Hirons, Dija Ayodele, Sarah Bradden and Sarah Chapman (ES Magazine)

10. GET THEE TO WORK

If you want skin that sings, be prepared for the work. Homework, that is. Four skin experts reveal their favourite at-home tech 

Dija Ayodele, Skin specialist and Author of BLACK SKIN

‘FaceLite’s LED mask promotes skin healing, especially for those prone to inflammatory breakouts and subsequent hyper-pigmentation that skin of colour is more susceptible to.’ FaceLite LED Face Mask, £299 (natural-facelift.com) 

Sarah Bradden, Cosmetic Acupuncturist and Healer

‘I have seen great results using the Lyma Laser both at home and the clinic. The medical-grade, near infra-red 500mW laser delivers a powerful, polarised light, stimulating bio-transformational cellular renewal.’ Lyma Laser, £1,999 (lyma.life) 

Sarah Chapman, Celebrity facialist and brand founder

‘My steamer’s nano-sized steam particles are rich in negative ions that penetrate skin more effectively than regular steam, helping to loosen blocked pores.’ Sarah Champan Pro Hydro-Mist Steamer, £138 (sarahchapman.co.uk) 

Caroline Hirons, Founder of Skin Rocks and Skin Expert

‘Currentbody’s silicone LED Light Therapy Face Mask is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture. The only drawback is you have to use it regularly or you might as well flush your cash down the loo.’ Currentbody Silicone LED Light Therapy Face Mask, £299 (currentbody.com) 

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