Sunday afternoon is the new Friday night in the La Perla area of San Juan. Along the rocky Atlantic coast at bar Mundo Aparte 2, a woman in her 80s has taken centre stage, moving to every beat from the live four-piece salsa band, surrounded by people cheering her on and singing along to popular tunes with a chilled Medalla in hand.
Next to it is a dilapidated building covered in graffiti, to the front of which is a large sign saying 'I love La Perla.' This once-neglected shantytown was established in the 18th century by the working class forced to live on the other side of the wall. These days this part of town attracts curious tourists, thanks to the video for Luis Fonsi's mega-hit Despacito.
A short walk away in Old San Juan, the pastel-coloured facades look freshly painted and the streets meticulously clean. Puerto Rico's historic Old Town is a small area made up of grid-like streets, easy enough to navigate, and even at a leisurely pace, you can probe its cobblestone corners in a couple of days.
The charm of Old San Juan
Start the day Puerto Rican style with a cup of freshly ground coffee. Cuatro Sombras pride themselves on sustainably grown, hand-picked beans from their hacienda. A sentiment echoed by plenty of other speciality cafes choosing local over imports. While there, try the croissant with ham and guava butter - you’ll want to bring back a jar of this with you.
Sightseeing in Old San Juan is as convenient as can be - all significant buildings are clubbed together towards the end of town. One of the oldest is Catedral de San Juan Bautista, a Gothic-style church constructed in 1540. A few steps from the cathedral Museo De Las Americas, located in military barracks from the 1800s, offers a fascinating insight into Latin art- pre-Colombian to contemporary. If grand entrances are anything to go by, nothing beats the 16th-century fortress Castillo del Morro. The best time to visit is dusk when pink skies make for the most spectacular setting. Adventurers can also enjoy panoramic views of the fortress and the historic town from the ocean with East Island Excursions mini boat tours.
If all that walking has left you feeling peckish, head to El Patio de Sam for a mofongo, made by crushing fried plantains with garlic and served with meat or seafood. While in Puerto Rico, take every opportunity to sip on an ice-cold pina colada. Food and drink tours by Flavors Food Tours give you a taste of everything from Senor Paleta’s ice cream to arroz con gandules (rice with pigeon peas).
Santurce
A creative movement is emerging in Santurce, a hip neighbourhood of San Juan home to the Puerto Rico Museum of Art. Young entrepreneurs are experimenting with ideas and launching initiatives to empower local talent in art and hospitality. One such project is The Art Walk which shines a light on the vibrant street art scene in and around Calle Cerra. The two-and-a-half-hour tour, guided by its founder Georgie Vega, gives a real insight into the community of graffiti artists and muralists who call the area home. Along the way, you’ll see works by influential artists like Alexis Bousquet and Javier Cintrón - and if you’re lucky, you may even cross paths with them.
Lote 23 is all about bringing talented chefs under one roof - or in this case, one lot. This gastronomic oasis hosts 14 kiosks and trucks dishing out everything from locally sourced meat to Asian poke bowls. Come here for the food and stay on for the lovely open ambience and live entertainment.
For fine dining, look no future than Santaella. Renowned Puerto Rican chef Jose Santaella’s restaurant is unassuming and understated from the outside. The interiors are a sophisticated affair with contemporary lighting and even more contemporary food. Dishes are a fusion of local and international cuisines with a Santaella twist. The same quirky ideas translate on the cocktail list: try their jalapeño-infused margarita. Rum drinkers should opt for Jibarito Mule made using Añejo rum, hot pepper-infused syrup, fresh lemon juice and house-made ginger beer.
Right outside Santaella is La Placita, the party hub of San Juan and a go-to for lovers of reggaeton, salsa and club music. Dozens of bars surround the 100-year old two-tier marketplace that once sold fruit and vegetables. Nowadays, it is where locals of all ages hang out from 6 pm until the early morning, with the liveliest atmosphere from Thursday through Sunday.
Puerto Rico beyond San Juan
Loiza
Just 26km from San Juan, this coastal municipality is known as the ‘Capital of Tradition’ for its deep-rooted history in music, arts and culture influenced by West Africa. Bomba, a genre of music and dance, originated in Loiza, and it’s something Sheila Osorio is keen to preserve. “It’s important for the future generations to know where we come from- especially our ancestors,” she tells me after our dance lesson, which is in the most idyllic setting on the beach. The drummers follow the movements of the dancer to create a rhythm. Sheila’s passion is infectious, and you can see that in her students, some of whom are as young as six.
The coastal drive from San Juan to Loiza is full of pristine, picturesque beaches - a great alternative to touristy Isla Verde. Along the way in Piñones, you’ll find rows of chinchorros (roadside kiosks) selling seafood and meat frituras (fritters and fried turnovers) and charcoal-grilled skewers. Alcapurrias stuffed with crab are a local delicacy and a must-try.
Cavernas del Rio Camuy
Most people looking to go to a national park in Puerto Rico will end up at El Yunque. Try something different and head northwest to the region of Camuy for an underground journey filled with rock formations from hundreds of years ago. The caverns are part of an extensive network of caves and river waterways carved by Rio Camuy. According to official data, there are at least 17 entrances to the caverns and more than 220 caves, but experts believe that number to be more than 800. A carefully carved-out trail allows you to experience stalactites and stalagmites of unimaginable proportions. You’ll also meet some of the creatures that live between them. Rio Camuy Cave Park is open from Wednesday through Sunday.
On your way to or from Camuy, stop at Salitre Mesón Costero, an oceanside restaurant located in the town of Arecibo. From mahi-mahi ceviche and grilled octopus in garlic sauce to pasta and paella, owner Luiz Jimenez prides himself on preparing the freshest catch. Their special house mojito is a welcome relief from the afternoon sun.
Ponce
Colourful buildings influenced by European architecture, a bustling town square and rich culture, Ponce is as historic as Puerto Rico’s capital San Juan. Parque de Bombas, a former fire station known for its red and black stripes, is the most iconic building occupying pride of place in the centre of Plaza Las Delicias alongside Ponce Cathedral. Other key establishments in Ponce include Museo de Arte de Ponce, home to 4,500 works of art from internationally renowned collections dating from the ninth century C.E. to the present.
For stunning views of Ponce, get to Castillo Serrallés Museum, a stately home that belonged to the Serrallés family of the famous DonQ rum. Visitors can wander around the house, its rooms, gardens and take an elevator up to the Vigía Cross, a 30m tall cross with a viewing gallery at the top, for $15.
Most places to eat and drink in Ponce are around the plaza. Have breakfast at La Potoroca, lunch at Restaurant Tablas and dinner at Lola Eclectic Cuisine.
La Parguera
La Parguera is a nature-lover’s paradise with plenty of opportunities to snorkel, scuba or go hiking. The small coastal town is buzzing with bars, restaurants and shops selling souvenirs, especially in the evenings when all tour operators have returned to base. It is also known for its biodiversity and vibrant marine life: divers and snorkellers can see various fishes, turtles and well-developed coral reefs.
Most tourists descend to this small coastal town to experience the bioluminescent bay, where you can swim as the dinoflagellates light up around you. Paradise Scuba & Snorkeling Center organise bio bay tours for $85.
Where to stay
Casa Sol Bed and Breakfast in the Old San Juan is owned and run by natives Eddie Ramírez and Margarita Pasto. The impeccably kept property boasts five double rooms, some with original frescos, and a lovely courtyard where you get served breakfast. Rooms start from £180 per night.
Getting there
British Airways and American Airlines operate daily flights from London Heathrow to San Juan via Miami.
For more information, visit Discover Puerto Rico
