As Pharrell’s second Louis Vuitton menswear collection stepped onto the Paris runway, and subsequently overwhelmed social media, every member of the London style set had a similar uncanny feeling: well, doesn’t that look a hell of a lot like Luke Day?
The former fashion director of GQ Magazine and editor of supplement GQ Style has (like Anna Wintour has the bob; Karl Lagerfeld had the ponytail and Suzy Menkes, the quiff) carved a signature look — all retro Western, plus a staple oversized cowboy hat.
And here it was, mirrored on the singer-turned-creative director’s catwalk; tassel denim jeans, horsehead and cacti embroidered silk cowboy shirts, and studded, black leather hats. Nothing was safe from a bolo tie lashing, most of the 76 looks came heeled with cowboy boots.
“I love that kind of seventies kind of element to it, with the flares and wide lapel tailoring, then it's kind of mixed with that kind of eighties streetwear,” says Day. “They've referenced all those original iconic designers that did amazing Western wear — from Nudie Rodeo Tailors, who made costumes for everyone in the fifties and the sixties, to the Lansky Brothers, who used to make shirts for Elvis Presley and the likes.”
To a soundtrack which saw joint-efforts from Pharrell and Mumford & Sons, as well as Miley Cyrus, came every iteration of a Texan rancher. “Every iconic character from a spaghetti Western was in the show — and every iconic piece,” Day says. “The most amazing western shirt, embroidered flared suit, denim ruffles.” The "first cowboy" and the "American dandy" had spots at the top of the moodboard, as per the show credits.
It's a new path for Vuitton but old ground for Day, who has been cultivating a wardrobe full of these staples for years. “There's always been a Western element to my style,” he says. “Certainly that kind of Canadian Tuxedo, and wearing double or triple denims. Then about six years ago I added a hat — and then that was kind of it. Now I even have the word cowboy tattooed on my chest.”
As for Pharrell, who made it look easy to add a touch of vaquero to every day outfits — he took his bow in flared, dark denim jeans fastened with a bulky LV monogram belt, a love heart printed white t-shirt and bright white cowboy hat — it marked a hopeful chapter in what is to come at Louis Vuitton, following a leaderless period after former creative director Virgil Abloh’s death in 2021.
As Day says, “this is only his second show, and I really think that he's progressing strongly. I'm really excited to see what happens next.”
Luke Day’s guide to dressing like an urban cowboy
First, buy a cowboy hat
The obvious way to mix some Western into your look is a hat. Look at the way Pharrell wears it in the show. It doesn't need to be a full fancy dress costume. It looks great with a coat and kind of normal clothes. You can go to Stetson, which has a new shop in Soho, to get it. stetson-london.com
Jessie Western is your London one-stop-shop
Just go to Jessie Western and get a great belt from there. They have all the paraphernalia — great boots, all kinds of turquoise bolo ties. She also does custom pieces, like suede tassel waistcoats. jessiewestern.com
Wear a bolo tie — with anything
What I thought was really interesting was taking a plaid shirt, but wearing a bolo tie with it. I feel like a bolo tie is like a real thing now.
Add something small…
There's definitely tips you can take right from this show — even adding a little handkerchief out of your pocket or around the neck.
And for anything else, visit Hey Cowboy!
Near Brick Lane (32 Cheshire St) there's actually a vintage western shop Hey Cowboy! It's a good place to find the perfect shirt.
