Securing the ideal pair of sunglasses often proves surprisingly complex. What appears effortlessly stylish on one person can look entirely different on another, perhaps too wide, too narrow, overly harsh, or simply ill-fitting.
"The primary guideline I'd offer is to contrast, not match," advises Dane Butler, co-founder of the sunglasses brand Finlay. "If your face has angular features, opt for curved frames. Conversely, if your face is round, choose a more structured design."
Beyond the fundamental shape, subtle elements can dramatically alter how flattering a pair of shades appears. "Frankly, frame size, colour, and lens tint are all significant," Butler notes, "but lens colour is frequently overlooked." A warmer tint can soften facial contours, while darker lenses provide greater definition – a key consideration when deciding between hues like black and brown.
As brighter days emerge, understanding your face shape and selecting the most complementary frames becomes essential.
Heart and diamond-shaped faces
If your face is wider at the forehead and tapers down to a narrower chin, you likely fall into the heart-shaped category. The key here is to balance proportions.
“Heart-shaped faces tend to look amazing in frames that add a little width at the jawline and draw the eye downward,” says Butler.
“[Anything] rimless, gentle cat-eyes and round or oval shapes. Aviators are actually brilliant here.”
When it comes to what to avoid, “anything too top-heavy or wide at the brow,” Butler adds, can exaggerate the upper half of the face.
Diamond-shaped faces – slightly rarer – tend to have prominent cheekbones with a narrower forehead and jaw. Here, the goal is softening angles.
“Oval frames and cat-eyes all work beautifully,” Butler says, “brow-line frames are a great shout too,” as they add width where it’s needed.
Meller Jina Rimless Sunglasses, £49
Le Specs Hypnosis Cat-Eye Sunglasses, £39.99 (were £55)
Square and round faces
If you think you have a strong jawline and broad forehead, you’re likely working with a square face shape, where the trick is to soften it.
“Square faces have strong, defined jawlines, so you want frames that soften rather than echo that angularity,” says Butler.
“Round, oval and circular frames are your best friend.”
He also suggests thinner metal frames or styles with an upward sweep, which can subtly lift and balance the face.
For round faces, it’s the opposite approach.
“Round faces benefit from a little structure and contrast,” he explains, “wider frames, rectangular or square shapes, and anything with a strong brow-line help to elongate and define.”
If in doubt, go bold. “A bit of width at the temples creates the illusion of length,” he adds, “so go for something statement rather than petite.”
& Other Stories Slim Oval-Frame Sunglasses, £32
Oval and oblong faces
If you’ve ever felt like most sunglasses “just work” on you, chances are you have an oval face.
“Oval faces have well-balanced proportions, which means almost any frame works, so this is really your chance to have fun and experiment.”
The only caveat is proportion. “Frames that are too small or too large can throw off the balance,” Butler says.
Oblong faces, on the other hand, are longer and narrower – so the aim is to create width.
“Large, oversized frames do this brilliantly, as do deeper lenses.
“Avoid narrow, elongated shapes that emphasise the length further.”
jimmy">Jimmy Fairly paris">Paris The Loulou Sunglasses, £135
How to style the on-trend aviators and skinny Nineties frames
“Aviators are one of those rare styles that suit lots of different people,” says Butler, referring to the recent Noughties revival and renaissance of the style, thanks to the likes of Victoria Beckham.
“The classic teardrop shape is good on heart and oval faces.
“[Right now], I think rectangular aviators are having a real moment,” he says, “especially acetate ones. They feel more modern and a bit more interesting.”
The aviator trend comes with the resurgence of slim, Nineties-inspired sunglasses – which are the trickiest of styles to pull off.
“The Nineties slim frame is notoriously tricky,” Butler admits. But his workaround is to “try a version with a slight rectangular or geometric shape rather than a full oval. The added structure can help.”
In other words, tweak the trend to suit your face, rather than forcing a shape that doesn’t quite work.
Finlay Ledbury Sunglasses in Burnt Toffee, £160
M&S Lugged Rectangle Sunglasses, £10
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