In the space of seven miles, I’ve driven past countryside that has more landmarks than I know what to do with. Two hilltop castles romantically rise above a verdant valley brimming with grazing sheep and milk cows. Georgian houses with soft hues of purple, pink and blue conceal a medieval deer park. Skirting around all this, like a warden keeping everything in check, is the mighty Tywi (Towy) – the longest river in Wales – and above is a neo-Gothic tower that was once bright pink. The folly’s ostentatious architecture likewise casts shadows over award-winning restaurants.
This expanse of the Tywi Valley sits in Carmarthenshire (Sir Gâr), recognised as the “Garden of Wales”. It was once the heart of the Kingdom of Deheubarth, whose rulers established today’s Wales. However, nowadays this road, much like the rest of the county, is often only used to reach Wales’s big hitters: Pembrokeshire, the Brecon Beacons and Powys. But with so much packed in within a short distance, it’s clear Carmarthenshire is worth exploring. As I soon discover, every bend, foothill and unassuming town contains historic treasures, surprising legends, enthralling vistas and untold stories revealing the “real” Wales.
