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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Fiona Beckett

How to choose festive fizz: from artisan to the best bargains

Bottles of sparking wine, with champagne glass on a Christmas table decorated with a gold decorations and candles.
Whichever fizz you choose you’ll need to make sure it’s well chilled. Not just because it tastes better but it reduces the risk of an explosive opening. Photograph: Linda Nylind/The Guardian

With every supermarket stacked wall-to-wall with special offers, it can be hard to know what to buy or what’s the best value wine out there. According to a recent Which? report, the best buy is a Sainsbury’s crémant d’Alsace but I’m not convinced there’s such a thing as “the” best bottle of fizz. It depends what or who you want it for: a party, a Christmas toast or a gift to take your host. If you’re looking for a bottle for just the two of you, you might be more inclined to splash out than if you’re pouring it for a large family gathering.

It’s also a question of your own personal taste. Whether you prefer a bone-dry fizz or one with a touch of sweetness such as prosecco. Or whether you want to drink it as an aperitif – in which case you’ll want something light and refreshing like a crémant – or with more substantial food when you might fancy something richer and more toasty. Personally I prefer Asda’s crémant d’Alsace to the Sainsbury’s one – and it’s quite a bit cheaper. (Crémant by the way is the name for French sparkling wines that are made outside the Champagne region so are not entitled to use the C-word.)

I haven’t listed any vintage champagnes that you might be inclined to think are better than non-vintage or NV. That’s not necessarily the case. It simply means they come for a single vintage rather than being a blend of wines from different years like most champagne. They tend to be fuller and richer, which is great if you want to drink them with food but are not really necessary for a party.

Whichever fizz you choose, you’ll need to make sure it’s well chilled. Not just because it tastes better that way but because it subdues the pressure in the bottle and stops the cork flying out with an explosive pop. If the temperature is suitably wintry and you’re running out of fridge space, stash it for a few hours in a garage or outside the back door (though don’t store it there for any length of time in case it freezes).

Best glamour splurge

Bollinger Special Cuvée, widely available around £46 but shop around
There is a case for saying there’s no point in buying champagne unless everyone knows you’ve splashed the cash and there’s no blingier name than Bolly. Doesn’t matter about the liquid in the bottle, though that’s good, it’s all about the name and associations (Ab Fab, James Bond …) Half-bottles are cool too.

Best bargain

Sorso prosecco £6.50 Morrisons
Yes, yes, I know. Prosecco – yawn. But people like it, it’s really well priced and this bottle looks a lot more expensive than it is. Hard to beat for party fizz especially if you use it for a cocktail. You’re trying to save money, not trying to be interesting, right?

Best party fizz

Asda Extra Special crémant d’Alsace £11, currently with 25% off if you buy any six bottles (ie £8.25)
Alsace makes some of the best champagne-style fizz. Asda’s, which has picked up a handful of medals, is particularly good – smooth and classy – and drier than prosecco if you find prosecco too sweet.

Sparkling wine is poured into a champagne glass on a decorated Christmas table
Vintage champagne is not necessarily better than non-vintage, which is why I haven’t included any. Photograph: Linda Nylind/The Guardian

Best supermarket champagne

Co-op Les Pionniers NV, on offer at £21.75
There’s lots of really good supermarket champagne but it’s hard to beat Les Pionniers, which is made by Piper Heidsieck and exclusive to the Co-op, for quality. And unlike many own brands, it doesn’t have the supermarket’s name all over the label.

Best artisan fizz

Champagne Marc Hébrart Selection Extra Brut 1er Cru, £35.95 Lea & Sandeman or £33.50 a bottle if you buy a case of 6
Grower champagne – champagne that’s made by a single producer rather than sourced from dozens of growers – is bang on trend because it has a better back story and more individuality. You can support an independent too. The London wine merchant Lea & Sandeman specialises in them and this is just lovely. An elegant champagne for sipping rather than swigging.

Most underrated

Cava Amorany Cuvée Especial Brut 11.5%, £7.99 Lidl
Cava offers some of the best value in the sparkling wine world and because it’s made in the comparatively warm climate of Spain, it doesn’t need as much added sugar as most fizz. This is a terrific example from Lidl, though I don’t get the “lemon cheesecake” on the nose the supermarket describes on its website. Still, do you want your fizz to taste of lemon cheesecake?

Best non-champagne fizz

Roebuck Estates Reserve 2020, £38.99 Majestic or £26.99 on a mix six deal
England is now making champagne-quality fizz – admittedly at champagne-prices – so why look further afield? This classic blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier comes from Sussex, from the warm 2020 vintage and is rich and toasty. The stag on the label provides a suitably festive touch.

Best as a gift

Nyetimber Classic Cuvée magnum, £64.99 Waitrose Cellar, £65.63 The Wine Society
There’s something wonderfully indulgent about a magnum that miraculously makes it more of a treat than two bottles. It’s arguably Britain’s best known sparkling wine and comfortably bears comparison with champagne. Make sure you’re there when they crack it open.

Best alcohol-free

Gratien & Meyer Festillant Cuvée Blanche 0%, £4.50 The Wine Society
Fruity (crunchy apple, elderflower and passionfruit) but not tooth-achingly sweet, this is one of the best alcohol-free bubblies I’ve come across. At £4.50 a bottle, it’s a bargain too. Maybe we should all be drinking it.

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