Last week I was at a sustainable fashion event where I got caught in a conversation between two industry experts. They were discussing the recent downpour and whether anyone that lives in a city really needs rain gear made from synthetic fibres.
Although the issue is sometimes debated, synthetic fibres like polyester and nylon are considered bad for the environment because they are derived from fossil fuels, they shed microfibres during use and they don’t biodegrade. However, they remain prevalent in technical performance gear for the outdoors.
The experts said since most people in cities are only outside for short periods – running to the car or to the train station – it’s not really necessary to own heavy-duty rain gear. Jackets made from wool or waxed cotton would generally suffice these short distances.
More technical performance gear is still needed for people who regularly walk and hike long distances. The conversation left me wondering about functional, sustainable raincoats – and if there are any out there.
Recycled polyester or nylon
One obvious way around the carbon footprint of raincoats made from virgin polyester and nylon is to choose a waterproof jacket made from recycled materials instead. But it’s not quite so simple.
Alice Payne, an associate professor in fashion design at Queensland University of Technology, says: “People are probably already aware that recycled content will not be coming from recycled garments, but rather from other discarded plastic products – so this is an open-loop recycling approach, rather than a closed-loop approach.”
Payne explains that it’s much easier to collect and sort plastic bottles than it is to do the same for polyester clothing. “So until those collection and sorting systems are in place, turning plastic bottles into clothing is a one-way journey for that material.” But opting for recycled materials does reduce our reliance on virgin resources.
If you need technical gear and want a jacket made from recycled polyester or nylon, Rihanna Knight, founder of Australian outerwear brand Amble, says consumers should look out for “100% recycled fabric that is made from post-consumer waste”. Certification from the Global Recycle Standard is also a good sign.
Waxed cotton
A natural alternative to synthetic performance materials is waxed cotton. “Cotton is a renewable fibre and, as such, has a sustainability advantage over fibres … like polyester and nylon,” says Payne.
Hannah Rochell of British circular clothing brand Rapanui says: “You can achieve waterproofing performance with an organic cotton canvas and a PFC-free water-repellent coating … [It’s] like a modern alternative to the beeswax jacket but much more breathable and way lighter.”
Knight says the waterproof rating of a waxed cotton jacket will probably not match that of a hi-tech synthetic material, but Rochell says most people “probably don’t need that level of performance”.
While a waxed cotton won’t last as long as a synthetic material, Rochell believes “longevity is not always a good thing. A waterproof, weatherproof label sounds brilliant, but when it’s still floating about killing turtles in 10,000 years, that’s not great.”
According to Payne, if a waxed cotton coat is well cared for, it can be incredibly durable. “They can last, and they can have finishes reapplied,” she says. Besides, “many synthetic raincoats may have finishes that crack or degrade over time”.
Another thing to note is that cotton also comes with an environmental footprint as conventional farming can use a lot of pesticides, fertilisers and water. Choosing jackets made from organic cotton is a way to avoid this.
Dense wool
While a knitted jumper might not fare well in a rain shower, woven wool or boiled wool with a higher density should keep you dry and warm during a light one. This is because wool has a complex molecular structure and a waxy coating that makes it naturally water-resistant. It can also hold up to 30% of its weight in water without making the wearer feel cold and wet, and it is renewable and biodegradable, making it more sustainable post-use than synthetic materials.
Advances in spinning and weaving technology have increased wool’s suitability as a performance fabric. To make a 100% merino wool outer layer that is water-repellent and wind-resistant, Jordi Beneyto Ferre of New Zealand outdoor brand Icebreaker says they use wool that is pre-stretched before it is spun into yarn. The stretched wool is then woven into a highly dense fabric; then, during the fabric finishing process, the stretch is released, causing the yarns to contract and tighten the fabric structure, making the end result even more compact and dense.
But it’s worth keeping the lightweight and quick drying properties of performance wear in mind when considering buying wool products for the rain. If you get caught in a heavy downpour in a wool jacket, it won’t dry as quickly as technical material. Much like cotton, the sustainability of wool as a raw material can also vary significantly depending on the practices at its source.
Pick what’s practical and look after it
Ultimately, the most sustainable option is a garment you can keep and wear for a long time. “While the garment’s fibres, finishes and other inputs matter enormously, how we use our garments plays a big role in ensuring their sustainability too,” Payne says. “And that starts with good decision-making to get the garment that’s right for your needs.”
Consider things like how often you will wear the item and whether it is for rainstorms or light showers, Payne says. She also suggests borrowing a jacket if you just need something high performance for a specific trip, like a hike through Tasmania. Looking for something second-hand is also a good choice.
Finally, ensure whichever jacket you choose will last as long as possible by caring for it. “Hanging it up to dry completely [and] making sure it is stored in a well-ventilated place will help natural fibres avoid mildew and keep any finishes intact for longer,” she says.
This article was amended on 25 October to correctly show associate professor Alice Payne is faculty at Queensland University of Technology, not University of Queensland.
