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Evening Standard

Lifestyle

Divya Venkataraman

How the funnel jacket became a fashion must-have

Khaite (Organization) Nanushka

The neck is a curious thing. It’s erotic in some lights, delicate in others. Models are celebrated for their swan necks; in children’s books, it’s the villains who often have no neck at all. It’s strange then, that fashion should look to hide necks from view in such dramatic fashion — as we’re seeing this season. Behold, the age of the funnel neck jacket.

In the spring/summer shows held in September last year, funnel-necks began to pop up all over the runway. There were hefty cloaked styles at Altuzarra, deconstructed zipped styles at Nanushka, buttery leather cocoons at Khaite and a scarlet parka so bright you’d spot it through any storm at Ashlyn. But really, the funnel-neck’s genesis goes back even further: the style was first popularised by Balenciaga and Givenchy in the 1950s, signalling a kind of coy glamour, shrouding ingenues as they peered out over their high collars.

Now, the funnel-neck has dispersed from the runway to the high street. Technical windbreaker styles, with their nylon fabrications and a redundant drawstring or two, are useful for making you feel practical and useful, even if you’re only donning yours to potter around the weekend markets and stuff your too-many pockets with sweet treats. London-based Estonian designer Johanna Parv’s Cover Jacket is a cult favourite, hitting the sweet spot between luxury and urbane practicality: it’s lightweight and water-repellent, with a high neck, an adjustable bottom hem and a double-puller zip, “making it highly versatile,” explains Parv.

But success in styling depends on switching up the context: pair your funnel-neck with a slip dress or kitten heels to keep the ensemble polished, rather than mountain-ready. Look to Cos for stylish options that are sleek and weatherproof at once; or Ghospell for printed versions that charm.

“I’ve always believed transitional pieces should feel effortless yet considered,” says Sandra Sándor, founder and creative director of Nanushka, whose jackets strike that delicate balance. The funnel-neck style, she says, is “an essential during those in-between months, but I also love how naturally it layers.” She points to the brand’s Alonza jacket, a boxy style with swinging bolero sleeves that contrast with a sporty neckline. “It brings together all the elements I’m drawn to.”

Suede has also been a standout trend in recent seasons, as fashion keeps its hand on the throttle of the boho revival: keep yours from looking too twee by pairing it with a polished black trouser (low-rise, if you’re so inclined). Epaulettes add a military edge; a ballooning silhouette amps up the drama. Meanwhile, the best versions (Khaite’s; Phoebe Philo’s) are lined with fuzzy shearling or something equally pillowy, so that your neck, encased as it is, is encased only in luxury. At this rate, scarves are in serious danger of redundancy.