
The region known as Sava in Madagascar – roughly the same size as Wales – is responsible for around 80 per cent of the world’s vanilla crop. While vanilla was first cultivated by the Maya in the forests of Mexico, it is in this region, in the northeast of Madagascar, that it found a home for modern times, after French colonists brought over the vanilla orchid in the 1880s.
Chemical synthesis of the single vanillin chemical may have driven the “vanilla” to become the world’s most popular fragrance, found in everything from makeup to bug repellants, and now a term synonymous with blandness and mediocrity. But connoisseurs maintain that no laboratory product can match the subtle, creamy-rich flavour of the natural aroma, which contains nearly 200 chemical molecules.