
Now that we’re adults, my family divvies up the Christmas tasks. Inevitably, the cheese falls on me. I say inevitably; I bagsie it instantly. I love cheese. All cheese. From Cheestrings to aged Comté from cows fed a better diet than humans. I’ve judged at three World Cheese Awards, where thousands of the finest fromages compete to be named the best. It’s as glitzy as the Oscars but, like comparing a romcom with a thriller, ultimately a bit meaningless. How to compare Cheddar and Gorgonzola Anyway, there’s pressure at Christmas. I play it safe with good Stilton and artisan Cheddar, but always throw a curve ball. Last year that was red Leicester. ‘Isn’t red Leicester crap?’ someone asked. ‘No, it’s a good one,’ I promised.
Conventional cheeseboard wisdom in this country, particularly at Christmas, calls for Stilton, Cheddar and something soft, a Brie or Camembert. I have no qualms with this. They’re all great cheeses. Add a goat’s and something stinky and you’ve got yourself a party. But spicing things up can turn a dull cheeseboard into something fun, so here are my tips on doing so.