There’s something that binds restaurants that draw a celebrity crowd, though traditionally it’s rarely been what they serve. When the Ivy was in its Nineties pomp, the dish to have was — and still is, as it happens — the shepherd’s pie. Gastronomic wizardry was not required. Sexy Fish is still more famous for the crocodile on the wall than its sashimi, and few who are found in the Chiltern Firehouse ever say anything about the food. These are atmosphere restaurants; great A-list magnets that run on vibe, restaurants to see and to be seen in.
The latest of these is Lavo, inside Marylebone’s stylish BoTree hotel. Its star seemed assured from day one — open during fashion week, and a good-looking set is sure to follow. Case in point? Poppy and Chloe Delevingne turned up on the first night. Since then, it’s been a roll call of names few other places could hope to entice: Jared Leto, Naomi Campbell, the Elbas. Winnie Harlow came, so did Janet Jackson. Before their split, Romeo Beckham and Mia Regan were in; so impressed was Beckham that he face-timed his dad from the dining room. Even the art has connections: one painting is from Jesse Grylls, son of Bear.
