There’s something that binds restaurants that draw a celebrity crowd, though traditionally it’s rarely been what they serve. When the Ivy was in its Nineties pomp, the dish to have was — and still is, as it happens — the shepherd’s pie. Gastronomic wizardry was not required. Sexy Fish is still more famous for the crocodile on the wall than its sashimi, and few who are found in the Chiltern Firehouse ever say anything about the food. These are atmosphere restaurants; great A-list magnets that run on vibe, restaurants to see and to be seen in.
The latest of these is Lavo, inside Marylebone’s stylish BoTree hotel. Its star seemed assured from day one — open during fashion week, and a good-looking set is sure to follow. Case in point? Poppy and Chloe Delevingne turned up on the first night. Since then, it’s been a roll call of names few other places could hope to entice: Jared Leto, Naomi Campbell, the Elbas. Winnie Harlow came, so did Janet Jackson. Before their split, Romeo Beckham and Mia Regan were in; so impressed was Beckham that he face-timed his dad from the dining room. Even the art has connections: one painting is from Jesse Grylls, son of Bear.
It may just have helped that Lavo already has serious celeb credentials over in LA, where it first opened, and where it’s known for being the Kardashian-Jenner clan’s favourite restaurant. The London opening marked the sixth Lavo, owned by the behemoth that is the Tao Group, who also have Hakkasan and Yauatcha over here (Tao own more than 80 luxury restaurants, bars and nightclubs across the globe in total).
Like them, this is one for the big spenders — half a dozen oysters come in at £39, pizzas start at £20, there’s a steak at £68. There are great spoonfuls of caviar and blizzards of truffles. But which self-respecting celeb wants to go out for a night of glitz on the cheap? It helps that the pasta menu has the hits too — silk handkerchiefs, penne alla vodka. These are the most popular dishes, says director of marketing Alix Pickard, though there are other must-order dishes. “The Italian-American food movement is huge right now in London,” says Pickard. “So Lavo is bang on trend with its iconic dishes such as the 500g Wagyu meatball with marinara sauce and ricotta.” The 20-layer peanut butter cake, she adds, is another that flies out.
But there are other draws for the A-list, Pickard adds. “We’ve never set out to attract celebrities, but we know firsthand certain things they love about our restaurant. One flamboyant actor” — she won’t be drawn on names — “particularly loves our decadent seafood towers and ice sculptures at our events, whilst a supermodel loves our premium beverages (in particular tequila) and the exquisite glassware they’re served in – perfect for selfies!”Despite not actively courting them, Pickard admits she’d like to see many more big names come in. “Let’s keep with the American-Italian style and hope for Leonardo da Vinci, Monica Bellucci, Lady Gaga, Sophia Loren and Leonardo DiCaprio!” she says, cheerfully. For most places, it’s the guest list of fantasy. For Lavo? It might just come true.
