How hotel restaurants in London finally became cool

Restaurants in hotels are rarely cool. Not in London, anyway. They often feel disjointed or half-baked, as if there’s an expectation customers will come because they’ll be in the vicinity anyway. Why go all out when there are guests ready to go? Many of them are wealthy beyond all comprehension and intent only on revelling in luxury. To that end, cold langoustines and a crispy duck salad will do.

This isn’t to say hotel restaurants are bad, necessarily. One or two have long been among the best places to eat in town. The Ritz Restaurant is one, adored by any and all who can afford it. Hélène Darroze at The Connaught and Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester each maintain three Michelin stars. An omelette Arnold Bennett and a beef Wellington at The Savoy Grill remain two majestic dishes. But cool? Well.