Every household has its own capacity for heat and, even within each household, different members will have different levels of tolerance to, or indeed affection for, capsaicin, the chemical that gives chilli peppers their heat. We are a case in point: Sarit actively avoids anything that’s too hot, while I want my food to bite me back as I bite it. Our compromise is a jar of chilli sauce that I bring to the table at every meal. But there are some – very few – dishes that bridge this divide, where the right amount of heat is needed to bring out the flavours, and where too much will kill them instead. This is one such: tender fishballs with a delicate but assertive seasoning of fresh coriander in a juicy, fruity, peppery sauce.I don’t need my chilli sauce, while Sarit accepts the burn and sweaty nose for the absolute pleasure this dish delivers.
