Over the years, Israeli chef Tomer Blechman has gained mastery over the laid-back Mediterranean cuisine canon in New York City, and for good reason. After perfecting his expertise in restaurants like Maialimo, Gramercy Tavern, Lupa, and Cookshop, Blechman decided to carve a niche for himself and merge the traditional communal kitchen culture with his Israeli roots. This led to the birth of two Brooklyn restaurants, Miss Ada in Fort Greene (recipient of Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand) and Nill in Caroll Gardens, now acclaimed for their gourmet sharing plates made of seasonal produce – often the go-to for New Yorkers seeking a respite from crowds.
This philosophy of ‘good food, good company, good times’ carries onto Theodora, the new restaurant by Blechman in the heart of Fort Greene.
Step inside Theodora, in Brooklyn’s Fort Greene
An open-fire kitchen concept takes the spotlight, focusing on fresh ingredients and dry-aged seafood, accompanied by a natural vino programme. Small plates to ‘nourish from within’ lead the menu, such as fluke, immersed with coconut turmeric, candied ginger, and pickled fresno, followed by meats and more fish spiced up with citrus notes, mints, and fragrant herbs – must-tries are the eggplant carpaccio, with coriander and coconut, topped with orange zest, or the Thai falafel, with makrut lime, curry, and pickled carrots.
The key in all plates is a curated approach to dry-ageing fish, ‘using locally sourced seafood, supervising the humidity and temperature levels of the dry-ager to remove moisture from the fish, thereby concentrating its flavour and resulting in a smoother tasting product’, explains Blechman. Attention to detail extends to the wine list, emphasising natural wines from smaller, up-and-coming global winemakers. A cocktail selection is also available, inspired by folklore, legendary creatures, and ancient gods; the Aristaeus, for example, comprises tequila, feta, honey chamomile, and lemon.
Much like the four natural elements inspiring Theodora’s menu, the restaurant presents warm and unpretentious interiors courtesy of Brooklyn-based design practice Home Studios. Neutral tones accentuated with plaster textures, stone, tiles, and custom-designed wood millwork wrap the heart of the restaurant. The 76-seat dining room is anchored by its open kitchen and vintage seating, creating an airy space that boasts natural light from large storefront windows and skylights. The interiors feature ‘materials and details that aim to provide character as they age with time’, explains Home Studios – very much like Blechman’s dry-ageing culinary technique.
Soft curves dominate the back bar area, along with aged plaster, ceppo di gré shelves, zellige tiles and curved, custom tiles used as columns to divide the space. A series of bespoke pendant lamps, designed in collaboration with Ben and Aja Blanc, adorn the walls, boasting a wavy-edge and playful ball detailing, blackened metal stem, and unsealed canopy. Additionally, Home Studios disassembled mixed-colour tiles and reassembled them organically and irregularly to create a custom mosaic-tiled floor in the bathroom and base trim throughout the restaurant, achieving the appearance of an Old World handmade terrazzo.
Oliver Haslegrave, founder and creative director of Home Studios, describes Theodora’s simplicity and quality ‘like the ingredients of food cooked by fire’. He continues: ‘The ambience is a thoughtful orchestration of old-world charm and contemporary curation, paying homage to a narrative rich with diverse influences and perspectives.’
