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The Guardian - AU
The Guardian - AU
Lifestyle
Lin Jie Kong and Jennifer Wong

‘Here the people know each other’: why do so many regional Australian towns have a Chinese restaurant?

Ernest and Whitney Lai in their restaurant
Ernest and Whitney Lai, co-owners of the New Bo Wa restaurant in Moree, NSW. Photograph: Lin Jie Kong

Lin Jie Kong: One night, in search of dinner towards the end of a long road trip, I found myself at the RSL club in Karuah, a sleepy bayside town just north of Port Stephens, New South Wales. I feared it would be another night of choosing between chicken parmy and fish and chips but was surprised to find a well-reviewed Chinese restaurant in the club.

All the Australian Chinese staples were there: sweet and sour pork, Mongolian lamb, beef and black bean sauce. But what really caught my eye was the specials board: mapo tofu, Sichuan beef, a whole fish. These were dishes that wouldn’t be out of place in a big-city Chinatown restaurant, but all the way out here? I ended up sticking with two favourites – special fried rice and Peking pork.

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