The Chao Mae Thap Thim shrine is, for its supporters, a symbol of Bangkok’s rich history. Inside, framed by ornate golden carvings, stands a statue of the sea goddess Mazu. The goddess is especially cherished among many Chinese communities living overseas in south-east Asia, including those whose families settled in Thailand.
But outside the shrine’s entrance, which is adorned with traditional paintings and red and gold lanterns, looms a vast, modern construction project. On either side, grey concrete blocks, fixed with scaffolding and tarpaulin, rise up into the sky, with cranes poised beside them. Chao Mae Thap Thim, which is separated from the construction only by metal sheet fencing, could soon be knocked down to make way for further building work.
