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Newcastle Herald
Newcastle Herald
National
Lisa Rockman

Have a shuckin' good time at Thermidor's Coashella festival

Chef Josh Gregory with a Prawn Dog at Thermidor Oyster Bar & Brasserie, Honeysuckle. Picture by Marina Neil
Prawn Dogs with katsu curry sauce and sweet and sour sauce.
Kingfish ceviche with mandarin and tiger's blood dressing.
Manoush flatbread with spiced beef mince, feta and za'atar.
Kingfish ceviche with mandarin and tiger's blood dressing.
Prawn Dogs with katsu curry sauce and sweet and sour sauce.
Kingfish ceviche with mandarin and tiger's blood dressing.
Kingfish ceviche with mandarin and tiger's blood dressing.
Oysters at Thermidor Oyster Bar & Brasserie, Honeysuckle.
Crispy lamb ribs with green curry lime leaf and caramel.
Oysters at Thermidor Oyster Bar & Brasserie, Honeysuckle.
Prawn and pork empanadas with black truffle and harissa.
Oysters at Thermidor Oyster Bar & Brasserie, Honeysuckle.
Prawn and pork empanadas with black truffle and harissa.
Manoush flatbread with spiced beef mince, feta and za'atar.
Chef Josh Gregory with Thermidor's Prawn Dogs.
Chef Josh Gregory with a Thermidor Prawn Dog.
Thermidor Oyster Bar & Brasserie, Honeysuckle.
Thermidor Oyster Bar & Brasserie, Honeysuckle.
Thermidor Oyster Bar & Brasserie, Honeysuckle.

It's the name that caught my eye. Coashella.

Thermidor Oyster Bar & Brasserie at Honeysuckle's first birthday bash next month will, as the name suggests, have more of a festival vibe.

"We wanted it to be a festival of the oyster, and came up with Coashella. I can't claim that one, though, my wife Jess came up with it," chef and owner Josh Gregory tells Weekender.

"It's an all-day event with two-hour sittings from 11am to 9.30pm, interactive chef stations, music, cocktails and wine tasting ... all our chefs will be outside shucking the oysters and we'll be serving pizza by the slice.

"There's plenty going on, it's going to be a big day."

One year in business is cause for celebration. It's also a good time to reflect on the year that was, and Josh and Jess have been doing just that.

Thermidor's menu, particularly its bar snacks menu, has expanded significantly since the restaurant opened. You don't have to book for a sit down dinner here. You can drop by for drinks and snacks. It's about being more accessible by offering diners choices.

"We realise no one's got any money, no one, and we have found ways to make it easier for people to come out and still enjoy their time out, without being stressed about the bill," Josh explains.

"There's no worse feeling than sitting down at a restaurant and thinking 'Oh shit, I'm not really sure that we can afford this'. I never want anyone to feel that way when they're dining with us. We're not here looking at you like you're a dollar bill, we just want you to come in and have a good time."

One way to offer more variety, they decided, was to "flesh out" the menu rather than constantly changing dishes. It was also important to explain how share dining works at Thermidor, and how it can actually be cost effective for diners.

"People don't have to smash 100 bucks a head on a meal. If they want to come in and just have a few snacks and a drink, that's totally fine," Josh says.

"We want to be a busy neighbourhood restaurant, and in hospitality now that comes down to price point.

"Our menu is designed to be shared, but I think there was some confusion. People could look at the menu online and think the large plates are expensive. The steak's on at $150 but it feeds three people quite easily, so we've changed the menu wording a little, letting people know how many people each dish will feed.

"A dish might be $60 on the menu but it feeds two people, so that's just $30 a head. It all makes sense once you get here."

The versatility and ingenuity of Thermidor's food offering is captured by the latest addition to the snacks menu: a battered prawn on a stick known as a Prawn Dog.

"Our spanner crab doughnut was such a big deal and we needed to come up with something new that still had that fun aspect, so we started talking about food on a stick," Josh says.

"That kicked off a conversation about carnival food and I was like 'We could do a corn dog, but make it a prawn dog?' We serve it with a Japanese katsu curry sauce and a sweet and sour sauce with a little bit of spice. We couldn't keep up with the demand last weekend. It was crazy."

Again, it's all about options. Putting the customer first.

"We want to introduce flavours but we want to make it approachable, to give people touch points," Josh continues. "It's like, this sauce might be different, but a corn dog is familiar. Then they're more likely to give it a go."

Launching a takeaway option at the restaurant, Nautilus by Thermidor, is another example of Jess and Josh thinking outside the square; familiar dishes - squid, pasta, arancini, salad - made with quality ingredients by chefs that you can enjoy at home.

"Midweek through winter has been pretty ordinary for us," he says.

"We thought 'What can we do? We're in the kitchen anyway and we've got all this beautiful food'.

"So we decided to knock up a side menu online and put it on Uber Eats, or you can pick it up yourself. We'd rather be getting smashed on Uber Eats while also getting hammered by diners in the restaurant. We'd rather be busy."

I ask him what advice he would give himself, looking back over the past 12 months, in readiness for day one at Thermidor.

"There's a million things we could have done differently but I would probably tell myself just try to enjoy the process a little bit more," he replies.

"When we first opened, I was obsessively driving the menu - we'd practice a dish to the point that when we put it on the menu I was utterly sick of the sight of it. That is something I have tried to relax about.

"I would also tell myself to have more trust in the process, and in the fact that we do actually know what we're doing. We've trained a good team, and they are very confident and capable and they have their own ideas and we're taking those ideas on board."

To that end, he encourages his staff to dine in the restaurant and share their experiences.

"It's so different looking at it from a diner's perspective. As chefs, we eat the dishes but we only eat it as a dish, not as part of a share menu where people are tasting everything.

"In the end, all it comes down to is what can we do that makes the experience great for the guest."

Thermidor Oyster Bar & Brasserie, Shop 1/7 Honeysuckle Drive, Newcastle. Tickets to Coashella on Saturday, September 7, are on sale now at thermidor.com.au/whats-on.

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