The Haute Couture shows in Paris yesterday opened with a Chanel show inspired by the circus and closed, last night, with an Armani Privé show in which all 77 looks were inspired by the costumes of harlequins.
Reimagining the geometric print in soft peony pinks, turquoise and ice blue inspired by the Rococo interiors of Venetian palazzos, Armani went heavy on the diamond motif – which decorated the catwalk itself – embroidering it in crystals on cropped metallic quilted jackets, fluid silk palazzo pants and shimmering long-sleeved sequin tops. The jackets were mostly paired with cigarette pants or silky slimline jodhpurs - an Armani signature.
The lozenges tracked down the front of a baby pink sequin maxi and were blown up and patchworked on the full skirt of a silk organza gown. Most interesting though was when the print shimmered more subtly through watery sequin sheath dresses – many of which came with Jazz Age dropped waists and navel-skimming low v necklines.
Graphic black trims and black rosette flower corsages sharpened silhouettes, while vast organza clown ruffs in black organza or (you guessed it) more shimmering diamonds brought levity to ballgowns. Dainty diamond headpieces looked almost wide enough for Ascot’s Royal Enclosure approval.
Perched front row at the show staged in the Garde Républicaine were sisters Carla and Valeria Bruni next to former Ferrari CEO Jean Todt and his wife, plus Emily in Paris star Lucas Bravo, director Baz Luhrmann, Anna Wintour, Coco Rocha and Everything Everywhere All at Once actress Michelle Yeoh — who was likely scoping potential Armani frocks for the Oscars after her Best Actress nomination.
