Despite the baseball cap pulled down over her face, there’s something nigglingly familiar about the woman clambering off the water taxi in front of us. My wife and I exchange a brief ‘do we know her, hmm not sure’ look before our attention returns to the boat, now preparing to shuttle back to the mainland.
The waiting crowd shuffles forward, getting ready to board, when a Mid-Atlantic accent behind us triggers a jangle of recognition. "Hi," says the voice quietly, addressing one of the cab drivers also gathered on the jetty in the hope of a fare, "I’m Helena".
We both turn for a sneaky glance; and ping! The realisation dawns: those glassy blue eyes! Almost anywhere else on the planet, the real-world manifestation of an iconic 90’s supermodel would be greeted by some kind of murmured recognition, but nobody here has even batted an eyelid.
Welcome to Harbour Island, Helena Christensen. A quick Google reveals this is not your first visit – and after nearly a week on the cay, I can see why.
Sometimes called the Hamptons of the Caribbean, this three-mile-long, half-a-mile-wide stretch of palm-fringed beaches and Insta-fabulous, pastel-coloured clapboard houses is coveted by A-listers precisely because they know they can holiday on it in peace.
Unlike blingy Barbados or bouji St Barts – where half of Hollywood appears to have spent the holidays this year – you won’t find paps waiting at every turn. There are no fancy beach clubs or Michelin-starred restaurants – indeed, even in the smartest dining room in town, I saw at least two grown men eating $70 scallops in Bermuda shorts – and anyone expecting speedy 5-star service should, for the sake of their mental health, head elsewhere.
Which is exactly how the eclectic crowd of regulars like it. As the story goes, it was India Hicks, the goddaughter of King Charles, who put Briland (as locals call it) on the jet-set map, first visiting as a child and then later moving in permanently to start a family, before opening a smart hotel and an even smarter boutique. Her friends weren’t far behind.
Today, those aristos and artists have been joined by well-to-do, young, mainly American families, but the over-riding sensibility remains: visitors pootle around on golf carts, the preferred mode of transport here, dine in relaxed fashion around Dunmore, the main town, and generally embrace island time.
Where to stay
People on Harbour Island still talk about Pip Simmons’ parties back in the 1980s, where supermodels could be found matching rock stars for drinks at the honesty bar 'til the early hours. That anything-goes spirit endures today at Ocean View (from $435 per night), even if some of the informality has gone since Pip’s son Ben assumed control of the hotel with his partner Charlie. The bar – now manned during regular hours – is still a fantastic spot to meet people on any given evening, and Pip’s eclectic aesthetic vision endures: a combination of French shabby-chic and New England nautical that’s literally straight out of a Vogue photoshoot.
Today, there are 14 rooms, ranging from the smaller, original guestrooms in the main house to the more expansive cabins on surrounding grounds, all decorated in a similar style (think fashion-forward, Boho-chic), and all benefiting from the same, jaw-dropping view of the ocean. There is no gym or swimming pool, but no one seems to mind with the beach just footsteps away. During the day, guests make use of the hotel’s paddleboards or snorkels, or play boardgames in the comfortable public spaces, while nighttime sees the restaurant terrace transformed by candlelight, the kitchen serving up some of the best cooking on the island.
There are 11 other hotels on Harbour Island, including three more that, like Ocean View, also back onto the beach. But after just a few mornings here – waking to the sound of gently lapping waves – it's difficult to believe that anywhere is more attuned to this island’s languorous rhythm.
What to do
Harbour Island is 4,290 miles from London. To get there takes two flights, one of them a little hairy, and a boat (see the section on ‘Getting There’). But it’s worth it just to enjoy a barefoot sunrise stroll on Pink Sand Beach. As golden hour does its thing on the cerulean, swimming pool-clear waters, the powdery, pale-pink sands actually shimmer in the morning light. And if you needed a further reminder of how far you are from home, the convivial spirit of fellow early risers, walking their dogs or out for a constitutional, should do the trick. Everyone greets each other with a friendly hello, with nary a rush-hour scowl in sight.
They – just like you - will spend most of the day on this 3-mile stretch of sand – perhaps leaving briefly to grab a coffee in town before returning for lunch and a bottle of Whispering Angel on the sun deck at the Coral Sands Hotel, or even an afternoon horseback ride.
While roaring round Dunmore's oleander-scented streets in a golf buggy is tremendous fun, you can get an even better perspective of Harbour Island from the water – as I discovered on a morning cruise in a single-engine bay boat with the inimitable Duke Davis, who runs a charter business from the marina. Along with a potted history of the isle – which, it turns out was the first capital of the Bahamas – Duke points out, with relish, the part of the island called the Narrows, where the land thins to a sliver of rock and sand, and where you’ll find some of Briland’s most exclusive homes. It’s here that many of those A-listers – Clooney, Cruise, Hanks, Kardashian – take up residence when they’re in town.
Depending on your time, you can head further afield, too. The famous swimming pigs of Exuma are a couple of hours away, while closer to home, there are various spots where you can feed – or even swim with – giant, wild sea turtles, which, it turns out, is a surprisingly soul-enriching experience.
Eating Out
Boiled, deep-fried, soused or served raw – there are many ways to prepare conch (pronounced ‘conk’), but you’ll need to put any squeamishness aside while consuming what is effectively a giant sea snail. In fact, this Bahamian national staple is rather delicious, meaty rather than fishy, and if you’re visiting the islands then you are advised to lean in. Locals all recommend a visit to Queen Conch for a properly authentic experience. Their specialty is a conch salad, which is not dissimilar to ceviche, and the colourful harbourside spot is very nice indeed when the sun is shining - though be prepared for service that can only, politely, be described as extraordinarily laid-back. Elsewhere, I had an excellent conch chowder at Valentine’s, the buzzy bar and restaurant which is part of Valentine’s Resort and marina.
Conch aside, Harbour Island has a healthy, but relatively limited number of finer dining options, which means you’re advised to book in advance. On the seafood tip, try to get a dinner reservation at Da Vine, a wine-bar-cum-sushi-joint where the kitchen is headed up by a Nobu alum, while Aquapazza is a smart option for surprisingly authentic Italian cuisine. If you really want to push the boat, then Malcolm 51, at the Coral Sands hotel, is your best bet, the elegant British colonial décor (think dark, hardwood floors and neo-classical furniture) and an Asian-inflected menu are a welcome counterpoint to some of the more folksy cuisine elsewhere. Be warned, though – and this does apply to most things on Briland – dining out is not cheap.
After hours
It’s been a while since I’ve been invited to a nightclub by a stranger, but you get the feeling this kind of thing happens a lot in Dunmore Town. "Are you guys out tonight," asked a very friendly resident, as we petted her dog outside a harbourside boutique. "I hear there’s a band at Daddy D’s. Tomorrow," she continued, "everyone will be at Vic Hum’s".
With its colourful décor and record sleeves on the walls, Vic Hum nightclub is more Dalston dive bar than Annabel's, but the energy is palpable, tourists and locals getting in the spirit on the same dancefloor that Mick Jagger is said to often be found on when he visits.
If there is a social circuit of Dunmore, it begins at The Landing, India Hicks’ hotel and restaurant. Head there for drinks (and dinner if you can nab a reservation), before moving on for a bite (see 'Eating Out') and more libations (The Elbow Room and Beyond the Reef, both on the waterfront, are two popular spots), before that late-night limb-stretch on the dancefloor.
Island hopping
It’s impossible not to picture that 80s Bounty TV advert (kids – you might need to look this one up) as you lie in a hammock, swinging gently in the shade of a palm, as the sea laps nearby, not a soul in sight. The private beach at The Other Side (from $550 including transfers to Harbour Island and Three Island Dock and use of hotel golf carts in Harbour Island) is as close to being on a deserted paradise island as you’ll probably ever get – only here, you’re also only a hundred yards away from an expertly made Goombay Smash rum cocktail.
The sister property of Ocean View Club sits across the water from Harbour Island on Eleuthera – the vastly bigger, yet more secluded island that Brilanders call the mainland. There are about 30 inhabited islands in the Bahamian archipelago. Each has its own, quite different energy; and while you won’t be able to see them all, it makes sense to spend some time on Eleuthera, as this is where you’ll be flying in and out of.
With its rugged cliffs and rolling tropical forests, Eleuthera is very different from Harbour Island, and I’d recommend taking a day or two to explore some of its stunning natural attractions, which include the Sapphire Blue Hole in the north – an inland pool which tourists can jump into from a platform about 20 feet up before swimming in the bracing neon-blue waters – and Cathedral Caves, the vast subterranean network on the island southerly tip, which are brilliant for exploring.
Eleuthera’s main town of Governor’s Harbour sits somewhere in-between, its busy port and array of shops, hotels and restaurants are a sure sign of a bustling community. If you have time, then be sure to Tippy’s for a cold Kalik beer and a taco. With its terrace overlooking the Atlantic, in close proximity to the rather lovely French Leave Beach, this colourful, ur-version of a Caribbean bar, reggae playing on the speakers, naturally, is justifiably considered a local institution.
At 110 miles long, you could spend a great deal longer exploring Eleuthera than I did (and if you do then look out for Lenny Kravitz’s gigantic compound) but I’d suggest leaving enough time to embrace The Other Side.
This solar-powered, high-end glamping site where guests stay in a variety of safari-lodge style huts is intentionally remote, and joyfully relaxed, with days spent mainly sunbathing and swimming, either in the sea or the terrifically picturesque pool, before rocking up to a top-notch supper in the dining room, where a set menu is served to guests in a laid-back, communal style. Should the desire take you for something more ritzy, the hotel lays on regular speedboat shuttles to Harbour Island, but I found the slow pace of Eleuthera a perfect way to end my trip.
Getting there
As you may have guessed, there are no direct flights to Harbour Island. For anyone making the journey from the UK, the best route is via New Providence, which both BA and Virgin Atlantic service directly. From here, you can either take a three-hour ferry to Harbour Island (bear in mind it only runs on Fridays and Saturdays) or jump a short, but slightly bumpy 20-minute flight to Eleuthera with the brilliantly named Pineapple Air, followed by a 10-minute water taxi ride. Either way, after a 10-hour journey from London, a brief pause on New Providence is recommended.
Home to the capital city of Nassau, as well as two-thirds of the nation’s population, this island stop-off provides an excellent way to catch your breath. But where to stay? In Nassau, there are three, distinct centres of gravity: there’s Baha Mar, the ritzy, Vegas-like mega hotel and casino complex close to the popular beach at Goodman’s Bay; Paradise Island, of James Bond Thunderball fame; or the more buzzy, downtown area, which is centred around a sizeable port. I have to say that staying at One Particular Harbour – part of the nautically-styled Margaritaville complex, with its private beach and waterpark – was surprisingly fun, the sight of gigantic vessels cruising past your bedroom window first thing each morning providing quite the wake-up.
Each day, thousands of visitors spill out to these giant cruise ships to fill the bars and shops of Bay Street, which has a New Orleans-esque energy with its colonial balconies and brightly coloured frontages, all filled with revellers knocking back daiquiris. Some will find their way to nearby Junkanoo Beach, with its colourful beach bars, and this is where to head for a sky juice or two (a delicious local tipple made from gin and coconut water). Nassau is, of course, a historic town too. Founded in the 17th century by the British, its three forts are a visible throwback to a storied past, as is the rather grand architectural style of its civic buildings.
While New Providence has more Michelin stars than any other Caribbean island, there is much to be said for beating a less obvious, less touristy path when it comes to dining. On our first night, we enjoyed an excellent introduction to local cuisine at the Cricket Club, which is – as you might expect – just that. Conch fritters and curry goat washed down by a Kalik, sitting on a balcony overlooking a green cricket ground in the warm evening air is, it turns out, a pretty decent way to beat the jet lag and sink into the island rhythm.
