Ghofran Hamza, a Syrian refugee who arrived in Aberystwyth, Wales, in 2018, was among 15 immigrant chefs to feature in our January 2022 celebration of global restaurants bringing flavour to Britain’s towns and cities. “I had people calling and messaging from all over England and Wales wanting a table,” says Hamza, 24, of the reaction to appearing on Saturday’s cover with her favourite dish, vine leaves, from the menu at Arabic Flavour. When we spoke she, like all the chefs featured, was facing down the double threat to hospitality left over from Brexit and the pandemic. In the 18 months since, she has brought her Greek partner, George, into the business and embarked on a lengthy refurbishment to the high street premises, expanding their menu to incorporate the food of his heritage alongside hers, with both cooking for guests.
