I was worried for a second. I thought that brat summer was over. There have been a dozen chic think-pieces telling me so, but I didn’t really want to admit it was finally gone. To me, it felt like everyone had caught up. I’ve been living that life Von Dutch since the age of 18 (smoking before it was cool again, a messy love life, a laissez-faire approach to hygiene), and I was extraordinarily pleased to be enjoying it with everyone else. I didn’t want us to go back to clean girl makeup and Stanley cups. Not yet, anyway.
But then we were blessed with the remix of Guess with Billie Eilish – a lurid, messy bonus track made all the more so by Eilish’s breathy vocals – so, I’m pleased to announce that brat summer is back, although, in truth, it never really left.
So what bars to visit for brat summer, and beyond? So, what makes a London drinking den brat? Firstly, anywhere that isn’t in west London. East and South are brat. North London is brat. West London is not brat, sorry. It also has to have a very specific kind of bar menu, and a cheap one at that. Cocktails? Brat. Red-bull vodka? Brat. Lukewarm IPAs poured by a bartender who mansplains hops to you? Not brat. Natural wine? So brat. There’s a new trend from some establishments to push against the overly curated, the try-hard and the expensive, with a focus instead of community, fun and recession-proof drinks. Here are a few to do on repeat.
Rasputin's
My new favourite place to drink. It’s located midway down Mare Street, pleasantly just far enough from two spots where you’re guaranteed to see everyone you know: London Fields and Hackney Central. Rasputin’s is, however, somewhere you’re not likely to bump into your ex. Not just because it’s dimly lit and your ex had no taste, but because it’s only just opened, and is pleasingly under-the-radar. Martinis are £7 and served with a pearl necklace of olives. Childhood memory-unearthing hotdogs are on for £4. I hope this place stays special as it grows in popularity. But if there’s one thing that’s definitely not brat, it’s gatekeeping.
171 Mare St, E8 3RH (@rasputinsbar)
La Camionera
What’s more brat than a community-funded Lesbian bar? There were some anxious moments when the newly opened bar was pushing for its late licence. But it’s been granted, and it’s like La Camionera has been here for years. The Standard reported in February that their business goal was to ‘break even’. As a result, a brilliant menu that doesn’t price out the community it was set up for in the first place. Reports are in of strong, cheap drinks. Anchovies. Sade. A sun-trap of a smoking area. All of the above is true. They’ve also recently opened as a café in the daytime too. A great spot to sport some hangover-proof Givenchy shades and start the drinking again.
243 Well St, E9 6RG (@camionera.e9)
Dalston Superstore
Speaking of nursing hangovers, Dalston Superstore is an undeniable candidate for the brattiest venue in London. I feel like this is a bit self explanatory for those who are in the know (if you know you know). Superstore has the unique quality that it is a place that can both cause and cure a pretty severe hangover. It’s a stalwart of the queer clubbing scene that goes til the wee hours with many Red Bull flavours on offer (just a straw, thanks), but is also open in the daytime to plate you up some savoury waffles.
117 Kingsland High St, E8 2PB (dalstonsuperstore.com)
Rowans
Rowans was one of the first places that came to mind for this article. It’s a brat night out with several layers of debauchery. A blue and red neon sign is the first dead giveaway to a hazy, but brilliant night. It’s a night out, with layers. Firstly, there’s a bowling alley as you come in, with a well-stocked bar and the option to order Yard Sale pizza to your lane. Then, as soon as you think you’re finished, you turn and there’s an arcade. And, within that, miniature karaoke rooms with nowhere to stand but plenty of places to lean against with a beer. Speed Drive is on karaoke. Plus, the smoking area is little more than a few wooden benches out the back. What else do you need?
10 Stroud Green Rd, N4 2DF (rowans.co.uk)
Jumbi
There’s always something fabulous going on at Jumbi. And what it lacks in hyperpop bangers, it more than makes up for with… well… pretty much everything else. Dub, funk, techno, vinyl nights, open-mics for local artists – and if you’re lucky, you’ll catch founder Bradley Zero on the decks. There are three enormous rum punch dispensers behind the bar – the grenadine is my go-to – plus spirits and natural wine to take to the dancefloor. An enormous smoking area (with lots of friendly, cool people smoking in it) is the lime-green icing on the cake.
