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Times Life
Times Life
Aishwarya Kapoor

Handloom vs Powerloom: How to Tell the Difference and Why Indian Weavers Need You To

The tell is in the selvedge

The selvedge is the finished edge that runs the length of a fabric, the border the loom creates naturally as the weft thread turns back on itself. On a genuine handloom, the selvedge is slightly uneven. It pulls in a little, curves very faintly, and the weave density near the edge differs just barely from the centre. This happens because a human hand throws the shuttle and no two throws carry identical tension. On a powerloom, the selvedge is mechanically perfect: ruler-straight, uniform, with no variation at all. That perfection is the giveaway. Run your thumb along the edge. If it feels machine-finished and looks like it was cut with a laser, it was made by one.

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