The nostalgic yearning for crisp, bright summer days is a universal feeling we can all relate to all too well, especially as we near the colder months ahead. This sentiment was shared amongst attendees at Sabato De Sarno's sixth runway collection for Gucci's Spring/Summer 2025 collection in Milan.
Staging the show at the Triennale Milano marked the house's return to the museum after a successful Men's show this past June. Mimicking a hot summer day and all of its facets, the corridors were transformed by various hues, starting as a frangible shade of white and leaning into Gucci's signature red shade, 'Gucci Rosso Ancora'. Each room was highlighted with various colours that recall a summer's sunset, creating a unique and unrepeatable experience.
“A precise moment in time. A moment to seize and live to the fullest. It’s the moment the sun dives into the sea at the end of an August day. It’s the moment we find ourselves. This collection is a tribute to those moments, and an invitation to stop, seek your own moment,” said De Sarno.
Opening the show with a two-piece zip-front tailored suit, the creative director marked this as a true wardrobe essential. Trousers cut right above sneakers, look one continued to solidify one of De Sarno's key moves: merging womenswear with menswear. A tactic we have seen in previous seasons with the brand showcasing 'mirrored' looks for their men's Autumn/Winter 2024 collection.
Shortly after, the colour palette started to move away from grey and black, with Gucci's infamous red hue making an appearance alongside shades of orange, white, and bright lime green. Silhouettes showed the brand's clear homage to a time very dear to Gucci's DNA: the '60s, with one particular woman and avid client at the time, Jackie Kennedy Onassis, as an unforgettable muse.
Oversized sunglasses, headscarves, and, of course, Kennedy Onassis's eponymous handbag, 'The Jackie,' referenced her wardrobe throughout the collection. Ready-to-wear items included structured jackets, shorts, A-line skirts, denim, and grand coats that nodded the era and the former first lady's style evolution into the '70s. Some pieces also received a glossy finish as part of the brand's DNA, which was also accompanied by lacy lingerie peeking through dresses and coats.
As for the accessories, Gucci highlighted their classic Gucci Bamboo 1947 handbag as the star. Keeping in line with its original design, this season, the brand opted for a slight reimagination by collaborating with Japanese artists to create a one-of-a-kind handbag that celebrates Gucci's 60 years in Japan. Bamboo plants continued to inspire, with this season's jewellery offerings featuring bracelets, necklaces, and armlets mimicking the plant's natural curvature paired with sleek fingerless gloves.
Keeping in line with the '60s attitude, the Horsebit 1953 loafers debuted a new flat boot style after its previous reimaginations into platforms, creepers, ballerina flats, and ankle boots. Continuing to solidify the footwear style as one of the brand's most multifaceted offerings season after season.
“A year later, this collection shows an accomplished journey of construction. Moment after moment, I have built my ideas for Gucci. A casual grandeur that takes shape through my obsessions - tailoring, lingerie, leather, 60’s silhouettes, all combined with the tireless exploration of the heritage of this brand - and always with an irreverent attitude.” says De Sarno
