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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Jess Cartner-Morley in Milan

Gucci cuts the camp and returns to crisp chic under new designer

A long line of models walk along a line of light in Gucci clothing.
Sabato de Sarno has given Gucci a new slogan: ‘ancora’, or ‘again’. Photograph: Alessandro Garofalo/Reuters

The Gucci catwalk show was not just a new season, it was a factory reset. This was a turn-it-off-and-on-again moment for a brand that had stopped working. With a 15-minute showcase of crisp silhouettes and elegant accessories, seven years of Alessandro Michele’s exuberant camp were wiped clean.

The first look was a long black coat, plain except for Gucci signature red-and-green stripes glimpsed on the back vent mid-stride. Some loafers had a chunky flatform sole, but lots were the classic slim-profile loafer seen in business class airport lounges all over the world but which hasn’t had a catwalk outing for a while. Kitten heels with sparkling chain-back slingbacks made for polished, grownup party shoes.

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