This summer, the Argentinian chef Francis Mallmann, a legend in live-fire cookery, published Green Fire, a book exploring “extraordinary” ways to grill vegetables. Consider it a significant marker, as the notion of creating stellar dishes around barbecued vegetables becomes more popular.
From London’s Acme Fire Cult to the Moorcock Inn near Halifax, where medieval-looking grills wood-roast greens, broccoli, courgettes and asparagus, the most creative British barbecue is that which celebrates the alchemy of heat, smoke and vegetables on its own terms – rather than as a garnish for meat.