Whoever coined the phrase ‘Beware of Greeks bearing gifts’ might need to have a rethink.
That’s what I learned on a recent trip to the island of Kos — where generous locals make a Trojan effort to welcome visitors to their little slice of paradise in the Mediterranean.
Aer Lingus has launched a new route to the Hellenic hotspot, and it’s the perfect place for a sun-drenched getaway this summer.
The islands of Greece — a whopping 6,000 in total, with 227 inhabited — are famous around the world for their turquoise waters and golden beaches and Kos certainly has these on offer along with so much more.
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Part of the Dodecanese group of islands in the Aegean Sea, Kos is home to about 40,000 people and has a fascinating history.
It was said in Greek mythology to have been visited by the god Heracles — Hercules as we know him — and is the birthplace of Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine who lent his name to the Hippocratic Oath. In Kos town, you can visit the Tree of Hippocrates — he is said to have taught his students some 2,400 years ago in that spot.
Ancient ruins can also be seen throughout the town, which creates a pleasing contrast between the old and the new.
However, the primary historical attraction on the island is the former medical sanctuary of Asklepieion, where Hippocrates once practised and which is about 4km from the town.
Dating from the 3rd century BC, it was built to honour the god of health and medicine, Asklepios, and people came from far and wide for spiritual and physical healing.
The Asklepieion is built on a hill with several different sections separated by flights of stone stairs and in its day would have been a hugely impressive sight for any pilgrims arriving there.
A fair bit of walking is required to make it all the way to the top — but the ruins along the way of altars and temples as well as the views of the sea and surrounding countryside make it well worth the climb.
Another set of impressive ruins can be found in the town of Kefalos on the west coast — the remains of the Basilica of Agios Stefanos.
Not as much climbing is required here and the ancient columns are of a height that lends itself to a perfect photo opportunity — just make sure to strike your godliest pose!
The Agios Stefanos beach also offers the perfect place to relax and serves up the striking vista of the islet of Kastri — which is rocky and uninhabited but which still has a pretty little blue-and-white chapel, making it a popular and unique destination for weddings.
Also entwined in the history of Greece is its cuisine — known the world over for dishes such as moussaka (layers of potato, aubergine and lamb), feta cheese and gyros (meat served in pita bread, along with other ingredients), as well as the aniseed liqueur ouzo.
We were lucky to get to taste these — ‘taste’ being a polite way of saying ‘stuff our faces with’ — and many more, and across the board the food was of exceptional quality, with plenty on offer for vegetarians too (especially if you like cheese).
We were also able to get a behind-the-scenes look at food and drink production in Kos, with visits to local businesses all deeply proud of their craft and carrying on the work of previous generations.
First up was a trip to the Papadimitriou olive oil factory, which offered a fascinating insight into a product we would often use at home without giving too much of a thought to.
In fact Greece has by far the largest per capita consumption of olive oil in the world — around 24 litres per year. Our guide, a chemist, explained with aplomb the process from when an olive is picked to when it is bottled, and we were able to taste various flavours of olive oil afterwards, a selection you sadly would not see on the supermarket shelves back home.
Another striking fact we learned was how sustainable the olive oil industry can be — all the waste products can be used in other products such as fertiliser and soaps, for example.
Cheese is also a mainstay of the Greek diet and we rocked up to the Panagiotis Giannou factory where we donned protective clothing and got up close and personal with some delicious dairy products.
As well as feta, the factory also produces a speciality found only on Kos — Krasotiri or ‘wine cheese’ which is made from goats’ milk and aged in red sundried wine to give it its distinctive flavour.
They also make ice-cream from goats’ milk which is among the best I’ve ever tasted and they have a shop opposite the market in Kos town which is a must-visit on a hot afternoon.
A visit to the Melissa honey workshop — ‘Melissa’ means bee in Greek — also proved to be a fascinating and flavoursome experience. With 650 hives and up to 60,000 bees at the height of summer, it’s another family-run success story and you can sample different varieties of honey such as wild strawberry, pine or heather and their signature flavour, thyme honey.
On the drinks side of things, there are several wineries on the island which offer tours and tastings. We paid a visit to the Triantafyllopoulos Winery (try saying that after a few glasses) to sample their Ktima Akrani wines in red, white and rose, which all proved to be very drinkable.
Greek wine has experienced a rise in popularity in recent years as customers look for something different, and its signature white grape Assyrtiko can now be seen in shops worldwide.
Another local business that left an impression was the green company Pandrosia, which manufactures a range of products, mainly in the beauty and wellbeing sectors, from organic aloe vera.
It would be remarkably easy to just sit there in the sun and enjoy Kos’s fantastic food and drink forever — but there are also plenty of activities to keep your mind away from the next meal.
One of these is to get into the saddle by going horse-riding on the beach, which we did thanks to Erika’s Horse Farm in the village of Marmari, which is a great spot for families as there is also a mini-zoo to appeal to any animal lovers.
For someone who hadn’t been on a horse since a school tour in Blessington decades ago, I was put at ease by the well-trained steeds and trotting out down a country road to the beautiful Marmari beach was an experience I won’t forget in a hurry.
Swimming in the island’s welcoming waters is of course a major attraction, and a host of other watersports are available, while there is also the option to take a boat trip to explore one of the other islands nearby.
Island-hopping is very popular in Greece — and no surprise, with so much to see — and islands close to Kos for daytrippers include the pristine natural beauty of Pserimos, the volcanic isle of Nisyros and Kalymnos, a haven for rock climbers and sponge divers.
You can also country-hop as well by sailing over to the Turkish resort of Bodrum, which is visible from the island.
Back on Kos, another day trip that should be an essential part of your visit is a journey to the mountainous village of Zia.
Situated on the slopes of the island’s highest peak Mount Dikeos, it offers unparalleled views of Kos and its surrounding islands.
Take a wander through its cobbled, winding streets and you will discover a wealth of charming tavernas, traditional shops and churches and friendly locals.
Top it all off by dining at the Oromedon restaurant where you can drink in the panorama around you as well as an ice-cold beer — it’s also the perfect spot to see a stunning sunset if you are lucky enough to get a table at the right time.
For my first time in Greece, Kos served as a perfect introduction to this historic and beautiful country. We were even briefly island celebrities after being interviewed by the vice-mayor for local station KosTV about our experience!
A recent Greek tourism campaign states: “You will want to stay forever” and never a truer word was spoken. So my advice is to ‘Be aware of Greeks bearing gifts’ — now for me there are just the 226 islands left to visit.
FACT FILE:
How to get there: Aer Lingus operates two weekly flights from Dublin to Kos on Tuesday and Saturday. One-way fares start from €69.99 including taxes and charges. For more information on fares and schedules and to book visit aerlingus.com.
Where to stay: The Kipriotis Panorama Hotel and Suites is a perfect base for your Kos trip with a fabulous pool, stunning views and a well-stocked buffet.
Where to eat: Top recommendations in Kos town are the Marina Cafe, Ta Votsalakia fish tavern, and the H2O and Ali restaurants. In Kefalos, Mylotopi is a must.
For more, see www.kos.gr.
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